> Tim C wrote: > 1) Trunk lock: have to shake a bit to get the key in when > cold, but turns perfectly once the key is all the way in. I > WD-40'd it to get the key in tonight; however, I can't tell if > it's grabby because the key is old or because the pins don't > move properly. Do I replace the tumbler or the key? Or both?
Is the key brass or stainless steel? _Usually_, if it has a black plastic head it's stainless, but I happen to have one car with a set of very Merecedes looking keys with a bright nickle finish on the side of the key and a black plastic head that are actually brass. The stainless steel key is definitely preferred. If there is any water in the tumbler, and the air tempurature is below 0 C (32 F) it won't function well. WD40 can help that situation. The key slot should have a little door that swings closed when the key is removed to key junk out. If that's missing, water and other stuff can get in and muck up the action. A new tumbler setup to use a matching key is about $100, so it's worth being sure it really needs that. > 2) Brake master cylinder: just R&R and then brake fluid > flush? I have a pressure flusher thing from my Volvo days, I > assume that will work with a proper cap? Yup. Yup. The tank does not come with the new master cylinder. The rubber grommet seals between the tank and master cylider do. Well, they did on the one I just installed, anyway. The rubber caps for the top of the caliper bleed screws are often missing or old crumbly. About $2 each, part number 000-421-08-87 > 7) Car crunches (metal-on-rotating-metal) in rear when turning > 'sharply', and it is slowly getting worse. I speculate the > driveshaft is hitting something when I turn, perhaps due to bad > transmission/motor mounts. I know I need to do shocks, and > probably rear springs too. Anything else? Axle shafts? I'm not coming up with any good explanations for why you get such a noise only when turning. The only noise aft that changes with turning I have experienced is from half-shafts - but that doesn't match your description very well. > 8) Alignment: tire shop says I need one, but I gather it's > difficult aligning MBs; how do I find out if an alignment shop > is any good? The nearest dealer is awful for parts sales so I > swore them off, but I'll go there if there's no other choice. I do it myself. I bought a caster/camber gauge years ago. I use a laser level to do the toe-in. I've now done the process three times. Each was successful - the last being the best, fastest - of course. I did a write-up on the toe-in process. http://www.host-a.net/u/fmiser/w123-toein-alignment_howto_print.pdf or http://www.host-a.net/u/fmiser/w123-toein-alignment_howto_screen.pdf -- Philip _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
