Mike,
  
  Yes, in fact you can adjust toe-in yourself much more accurately than  any 
shop equipment.  It requires a little knowledge of basic  trigonometry but it 
works every time and is very simple.  Simply  drive to a lonely flat section of 
road where you can park the car on  the edge of the road and see at least a 
quarter mile or so ahead.   Straighten the wheels.  Kneel down and sight along 
the outer edges  of the left front tire near the center of the hub and note the 
exact  point in the distance that it points at.  Do the same for the  right 
front tire.  If they point at the exact same distant object,  then the toe is 
basically zero minus a very small amount.  If the  object is a quarter mile 
away, then the toe is minus 1/4 degree.   To get minus one degree of toe, the 
right tire should point about 17  feet left of the left tire aimpoint at 1/4 
mile.   Double the  offset if your target is a half-mile away.  I find the 
procedure  to be very repeatable and extremely accurate.  People
 driving by  will look at you funny but no shop equipment will do as well.  And 
 it's actually kind of fun. You will eventually learn the precise toe  that you 
car needs as you examine tire wear pattern and handling.    Bear in mind that 
camber and caster must be adjusted differently  and any changes will affect toe.
  
  When you change out the tie rods make sure you count the turns of all  the 
couplings to get things started out approximately right.   Don't pull the 
steering wheel to straighten it out.  Just  add/subtract a turn or two to each 
tie rod end accordingly.  Good  luck,
  
  Bruce

Mike Piles <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Hello all

I am getting ready to change the tie rod and center link on my 1985 300SD.
Is there a way I can properly adjust the toe in my self?  Also my steering
wheel is not properly centered.  If I pull the centering plug on the gear
box and center the gear box  should the steering wheel then be centered
unless someone really screwed something up?

Thanks
Mike Piles



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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
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[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I wouldn't say there is something VERY wrong if you are getting at least 12 
> volts. Sure it could be weak, but I wouldn't say VERY wrong with just 12 
> volts. Yea maybe a weak diode or voltage regulator, but 12 volts is not bad. 
> As I mentioned before its not JUST volts you need its amps too and without 
> enough to allow the battery to do a complete recovery during a charging cycle 
> then I would say there is something very wrong 

You will NOT charge a 12.6 V battery with 12 V from the alternator. It 
takes something above 13. If you're not getting 13.5 V from a Bosch 
alternator at low load at idle, SOMETHING isn't working as it should work!

Marshall
-- 
          Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
       "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

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