IIRC, you torque to given value - not all the great, then turn the bolt 90
degrees, let it sit for 15 minutes, then turn it another 90 degrees. These
are strech bolts. You need to measure the shank of the old ones before
re-using them to see if they're in tolerance or not. I just bought new bolts
from Rusty.

On Mon, Jul 4, 2011 at 11:14 AM, Randy Bennell <rbenn...@bennell.ca> wrote:

> Please note that I have deleted part of the message below to shorten it
>  and relate to my response.
>
> What is the torque setting for the head bolts when you put it back
> together?
>
> Are you going to need a monster torque wrench?
>
> My son was working on an F250 Diesel and they needed a wrench capable of
> something like 500+ foot pounds.
>
> Randy
>
>
> On 03/07/2011 10:44 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
>
>> Spent the afternoon working on my '95 E300 for a bit (fixed the other rear
>> window using the 210 slider previously discussed) and then I dove into
>> removing the head on my '87.
>>
>> So, exhaust came off, pulled turbo drain tube, finally wiggled the turbo
>> supply oil line out of the block.  It is time to loosen the head bolts!
>>
>> I'd ordered the Hazet bit from Rusty for the head bolts (triple square
>> 10mm), and it was really nice to have.  Didn't need it for all the bolts,
>> but for the seven buried under the cam bearings it was very nice.  Those
>> head bolts are TIGHT!  Needed the breaker bar to get them all loose.
>>
>> Very respectfully,
>> /s/
>> Max Dillon
>>
>
>
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-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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