Once you have fuel at #6, the bleeding is done. From there on, it is
let the nozzles fill up, and then they should deliver fuel.
A diesel needs fuel, air to compress, and compression to run when
hot. on prechamber engines, when cold, they need heat. In order to
get enough compression, the starter has to turn fast enough.
It is still possible that a leak is allowing air into the fuel.
(Check for bubbles as in a prior post.) It is possible that the glow
relay went bad, or the fuse is bad but looks ok. That would take out
the required heat. (check for voltage at the glow plugs.)
Air obstruction. (check for obstructions between air intake and the
crossover pipe after the turbo.) (don't drop a socket in the turbo)
Several things can lead to poor compression. rust forming on valves
and seats, (or cylinder walls) during the dormancy. wear/age, slow
turning starter. Take the other suggestions posted today, organize
them under fuel, air, compression, and heat and go through the list.
There is a reason. We just don't know yet what it is.
I think air leakage in fuel lines, no voltage to the GPs, and rust
are most likely problems. Someone a year or so ago had a leak after
changing filters, and it turned out to be an oring on the fuel filter
big bolt letting air into the system.
In the future, before working on a dormant engine, start it up first,
and let it run a few hours, then change filters and fluids. That
way, rust can be cleaned up, and you will have proven the
starter/battery system is ok.
On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 7:05 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
As for Alex,
1. crack the inj. lines at the injectors.
2. crack the return banjo fitting at the filter, or slip off the small line
form the nozzles.
3. crank until you get fuel at the return line.
4. close the return lines
5. crank until you get fuel at the nozzles.
6. when you get fuel at the injectors, close the lines.
7. Crank it again.
If you don't get fuel at step 3, then search for air leaks in the fuel
lines. It is usually deteriorated rubber hose, but can be rust too.
Well, I have followed steps 1-7 three times. Each time I get fuel at
steps 3 and 6. Each time I've cranked the car until the battery ran
down three or four times, putting it on the charger overnight between
tries. Still no start. It will sound like three or four cylinders
are firing irregularly, but never quite enough to turn under its own
power. The battery is fresh and I can hear that it's turning plenty
fast enough when first cranked. So that makes a total of about a
dozen serious attempts at starting since changing the filters. At
this point I feel like I'm just killing the starter.
I don't see any sign of leaky lines. How would I test for air leaks
too small to see easily?
I thought of the glow plugs, but they are only a few years old
(replaced when the #16 head blew). Resistance at the GP relay
connector is 0.5 ohm between the terminal and ground for all six
terminals. I don't have a VOM with a wide enough DC amp range to test
the current draw, but I know that at least some current is being
pulled by the fact that the interior lights dim and the pitch of the
key-in buzzer goes lower when the key is in glow position (and the
idiot light comes on steady).
Help! I am about ready to push this car off a cliff (if I could get it
started to drive it close enough).
Alex
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_______________________________________
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
