More this evening when I have time, but the point in going with a stationary 
standby set is to have features like sound and noise attenuation, which these 
sets are designed for.

Sound pressure levels are published by all the manufacturers, and the majority 
of these units are no louder than a conventional air conditioning unit.

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 30, 2011, at 9:59 AM, andrew strasfogel <astrasfo...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Dan, I really appreciate your clear and thorough explanation of how these
> work and are installed.  I figure we will need one powerful enough to run
> the AC since leaving the windows open as we do now would mean trying to
> sleep through the sound of our own plus the neighbor's intolerably noisy
> Honda portabe gasoline generator.
> 
> Are there any decent options for muffling the noise from a natural gas
> generator?  Are there any sound proofing or sound deadening enclosures that
> are better than others, cost being a factor?...
> Thanks,
> 
> Andrew
> On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 8:52 PM, LWB250 <lwb...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
>> <Generator hat on>
>> 
>> The whole thing when it comes to stationary standby generators is
>> determining what your critical loads are.  Until you do that, you're just
>> flailing around.
>> 
>> Make a list of "must have" loads and write down their wattages.
>> 
>> The worst case ones will be small, fractional horsepower motors, like sump
>> pumps and furnace blowers.  Single phase motors are horribly inefficient
>> when it comes to starting current, so you've got to have enough reserve to
>> handle their inrush current.
>> 
>> From there look at things like fridge, freezer, basic lighting, garage door
>> opener, etc.
>> 
>> Generac and other manufacturers have some good sizing programs on the Web
>> that allow you to do the calculations.  Just keep in mind that these are
>> general values and not 100% accurate.  It's a guide to give you an idea of
>> what you need capacity-wise.
>> 
>> Once you know what you need kW-wise you can start looking.
>> 
>> Stationary sets run off propane vapor or natural gas.  Be careful when
>> shopping, as propane has a much higher BTU content than natural gas, so
>> machines are often rated on propane with deration percentages if it's on
>> natural gas.  Usually you'll see a 10%-15% deration on natural gas.
>> 
>> Install often equals the cost of the unit, so be prepared.  If you can do
>> any of it yourself this is the place where you can save some serious bucks.
>> You will need a licensed electrician to do your transfer switch, unless
>> you're doing downstream of your main breaker.  This is typical, as a branch
>> circuit will be run to a transfer switch that feeds a small distribution
>> panel where your critical loads have been broken out from the main panel.
>> 
>> While it's more expensive, it's foolish (in my opinion) to go with a
>> stationary generator and not have an automatic transfer switch (ATS).  Think
>> about if you are away, and the power goes out.  If it's an extended outage,
>> you risk food loss, possible damage to your home depending on the climate
>> and season, etc.  Sure, it's a peace of mind thing, but the additional cost
>> is minimal in the grand scheme of things.
>> 
>> Generac has really dialed in the consumer home standby market, and done a
>> good job with it.  You'll find their products marketed at all the big box
>> home improvement stores under the "Guardian" brand, among others.  They have
>> done a very good job of balancing the price point vs. quality and longevity.
>> You can go more expensive, such as a Kohler, but even though I have some
>> bias as a former employee of both, the Kohler is a premium product that
>> effectively does the exact same thing the Generac does.
>> 
>> Maintenance is the key to longevity on these, just as it is on your MB, and
>> it doesn't take any special tools or knowledge.  Change oil and filters
>> annually and keep it clean and you're pretty much done with it.
>> 
>> If anyone has specific questions they are welcome to send me a PM.
>> 
>> Dan
>> 
>> </Generator hat off>
>> 
>> 
>> ________________________________
>> From: Allan Streib <str...@cs.indiana.edu>
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>> Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 6:48 PM
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Natural Gas generators
>> 
>> Mitch Haley <m...@voyager.net> writes:
>> 
>>> By NG, you're talking about a permanently installed automatic backup
>> generator?
>>> 
>>> 1. The $2-5k cost of buying it.
>>> 2. Getting a permit to hook it up.
>> 
>> 2.5 paying an electrician to hook it up properly.  This involves a
>> transfer switch which can be either automatic or manual depending how
>> much you want to spend.  But if you want something to take over when you
>> may be away from home, you need the automatic system.
>> 
>>> 3. The cost of the NG (which is probably 1/4 the cost of the propane
>>> that my dad's Generac burns).
>>> 
>>> A basic 7kw unit for a couple of thousand bucks can run a few mission
>>> critical circuits, like lighting and refrigeration. In my parents'
>>> case, they mainly give up high current 240v items like the water
>>> heater, stove, and dryer. I think there's one 240v circuit, and it's
>>> got the well pump on it.
>>> 
>>> If all your heating and cooking is done with gas, you should be OK
>>> with a 7k or 10k unit. I think that gives you six 120v circuits and
>>> one 240v circuit, so take a look at your breaker box and see how many
>>> circuits you consider critical.
>>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 1983 300D
>> 1979 300SD
>> 
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