I strongly suggest that you use a "clean as new" one.  For the small price
of a new Pump Oil Can it's not worth contamination of your brake system. If
you have an old one that works well but has oil in it, solvent wash followed
by spray brake cleaner, followed by compressed air should put in to work for
you.

The old Pump Cans were built well. I've picked up some at yard sales that
are likely 100 yrs old and still pump just fine.  Ahhhh.. the good old days
when "Made in America" actually ment "Quality".

On Tue, Oct 25, 2011 at 9:47 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Aha!  Now I remember reading that when you posted it before.  I knew there
> was a discussion, but I forgot the best part.  The oil can!  I probably even
> have one suitable.
>
>
>  Over the years I've used, and owned, I believe every brake bleed tool
>> invented. However, they all are a PITA, don't work as advertised, or cost
>> way to much.
>>
>> I've since discovered a method and a simple tool that has worked every
>> time,
>> on a huge variety of vehicles and lets me bleed brakes or clutches by
>> myself.
>>
>> It is a simple old fashioned pump oil can. You can still buy them at NAPA,
>> and other auto parts stores. I prefer the ones made completely of metal
>> that
>> hold a good volume of fluid.
>>
>> The method works like this:
>> Drain and flush the system as you did.
>> Leave the master cylinder empty, with the cap lightly setting in place
>> [very
>> important].
>> Close all bleed screws except the one farthest from Master Cylinder.
>> Fill the can of the pump oil can with brake fluid [the right kind for the
>> system you are working with]
>> Attach a piece of clean hose to the "squirt" part of the oil pump can,
>> attach the other end to the bleed nipple [you may need to rig up some
>> adaptors to get the hose size correct to allow a slip fit on to the
>> nipple],
>> I like to use enough hose that I can comfortably work setting outside the
>> car instead of under it, so a couple feet works for me.
>>
>> With all connections clean and firm, start pumping clean brake fluid from
>> the wheel cylinder back up the system to the master cylinder. Check the
>> Master Cylinder often to observe it being filled with clean fluid.  When
>> approx. 1/4 full, close the wheel nipple and move to the next closest by
>> length. Attach the hose to nipple, open nipple, pump clean fluid again,
>> filling that wheel and line to pump more fluid into cylinder, repeat as
>> necessary to fill all wheel cylinders and lines, while watching that you
>> do
>> not overfill the Master Cylinder OR run empty on the Pump Oil Can [if you
>> pump air you get to start over].
>> If the Pump Can gets low on fluid, just close the nipple, refill the Pump
>> Can, open the nipple are resume pumping.
>>
>> Using this method, the Master Cylinder is always higher than the wheel [or
>> clutch] cylinders. Air is lighter than brake fluid and by the laws of
>> physics it wants to go up, not down, so is easily pushed out of the
>> braking
>> or clutch system, first time, every time.
>>
>> I like to leave a little space in the Master Cylinder and top it off from
>> the top side, unless I happen to have an assistant who watches for me [not
>> often].
>>
>> Since using this system and spending less than $10 for a high quality hand
>> oil pump, I have been able to bleed any system by myself faster than I
>> could
>> with someone "pumping the peddle" and I've always had a full peddle when
>> done with no air in the systems.
>>
>> I've used this system on everything from motorcycles, to airplanes, to 5
>> ton
>> trucks with disk brakes, drum brake systems, and otherwise impossible to
>> bleed clutch systems, all with perfect success.
>>
>> [I find it handy to use a plug in the end of the hose after I've finished
>> and removed it from the last nipple, just to keep the tool clean and ready
>> for "next time"... also keeps from dripping what's in the hose so work
>> area
>> and tool crib remains clean]
>>
>> Hope this helps,
>>
>> Grant....
>> AZ...
>>
>>
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