I had somewhat of a revalation on the way home last night. I try to keep my 
cruising speed under 70mph, doing so generally keeps my mileage somewhere above 
28mpg after 70mph it drops quick.
  Then I got thinking that 70 is a pretty high percentage of the top speed of a 
240D and it occured to me that the lower the percentage of top speed the better 
the mileage was.
  Jim has mentioned he doesn't frequently drive the Frankenheap on the highway, 
so his good mileage makes sense.
  I've seen the other phenomenon also, my Dakota is a V8, a friend has a newer 
one with a V6. I was shocked to find we get the same mileage and sometimes I 
get a bit better. This surprised me because my truck has a buncha miles (around 
180,000) and his has fairly tall gears, I actually have towing gears which I 
figured would be a killer.
   
  So I figure theres a couple things at work:
#1 Power to weight ratio is important but not as important as the gearing.
  #2 MB was very smart about gearing these diesel cars
  #3 Keeing the RPM down gets better mileage, this one shouldn't be a surprise 
but try telling 20 people that and see who gets it....
   
  -Curt
   
  _______________________________________
  Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 17:32:25 -0800
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126
To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

> ratio and correct gearing. Most under powered cars like the 380SEL 
> will get
> worse mileage than a 420SEL driven roughly the same.

I think this is more true of gassers than diesels.  Nobody would think
that the 50HP (?) Frankenheap is anything but underpowered, yet it
drives well and turns in some pretty respectable fuel numbers.  A
115 is not the lightest thing in the world, either.

-- Jim


                
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update
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Wait, when you pour it into the upper radiator hose are you pouring it into the 
radiator?
  You know you're supposed to disconnect the hose at the radiator and pour the 
coolant directly into the head right?
  Because if you're pouring coolant directly into the engine and its running 
out the thermostat housing its not going into the radiator AT ALL.
   
  I'll admit I've never worked on a 60x but this just seems logical...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 07:22:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update
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I am pretty positive on the first two but not last
one. The thermostat on OM602 only goes in one
position. There is a tab in the thermostat housing
that sits in a small recess on the thermostat. Put it
in other ways the housing would not close properly. I
missed it when I put the second thermostat in and
found that out when I started to fill the rediator
from the upper hose. The coolant came out right there.
So that should tell me the radiator flows ok, right?
On the 190Dt it is hard to get the hose clamp for the
upper hose end on radiator so I detached from the
engine end and filled radiator from there. It is
possible there may be an air bubble trapped in the
head. How do you normally purge the air in the head -
by filling the engine from the upper hose?


Tan


                
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] the enterprise looses its warp drive,
        forced to run on impulse power
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KAleb,

First check the economy gauge and make sure it is going into the red, that
is the intake is reaching 0" of vacuum. On the W126 the throttle linkage is
spring loaded such that if the throttle plate sticks and does not open all
the way the gas pedal will still feel normal and go to floor but the economy
gauge will not go into red. I had a 560SEL that did this after I washed
engine and at first I thought Cat or Fuel filter. 

To check catalytic converter I will often remove O2 sensor and drive car.
Actually I have a pressure gauge with an adapter for the O2 sensor such that
I can measure back pressure. 

The catalytic converter can also fall apart and plug it's self up. Thus it
can happen rather sudden. 

Now if the Cat plugged up then after you replace you will want to check
emissions to make sure engine is tuned correctly. I usually monitor O2
sensor to determine if engine is running rich or lean. 

A couple more diagnostic steps may help you:

#1 Check economy gauge for going fully in the red. If not check throttle
linkage and for dead animals in intake. 

#2 at idle have some one rev up engine, then shoot a little carb cleaner in
intake. If engine revs high you know you are not getting enough fuel, and
most likely not Cat. 

#3 I will give you $500 for the car and take my chances... I thought others
would like that...

Trampas

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2005 12:25 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] the enterprise looses its warp drive, forced to run on
impulse power

On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 21:43:34 -0600 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I guess I probably need to cut the cat out and just install a straight
> pipe.

If that doesn't work, you might check the ignition timing (which you might
do anyway before removing the cat). Severly retarded timing will cause
pipes to glow orange and drop the power.


Craig

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