Question I failed to ask:

What diameter wire are you using? .020, .030 or .035 ?

To use the .020 wire, you will need to change the wheel gap adjustment to
fit the smaller wire AND change the wire guide in the business end of the
torch to fit the smaller wire.

Smaller wire will give you a hotter, smaller weld puddle, so you will need
to change your speed of torch movement to adapt. However, with smaller
wire, you should get a weld puddle that is more correct size for thinner
sheet metal. If you have an amperage adjustment, crank it down for the
smaller wire.

Again, do spot welds, Hammer and dolly the welds while still red, which
will flatten the weld joint and make better contact, thus better welds..
Your "tack weld" should be 1/8 to 1/4 inch long, so as you work the panel
into position [tack on one side.. hammer/dolly to flatten.... tack the
other side .. hammer/dolly to flatten.. As you work around the repair..
soon you have the patch "contained" with the weld joint overlap nice and
flat from "hammer / dolly" and on the second pass.. instead of tack welds 4
inches apart.. go in between the 4 inch tacks.. same routine.. so on second
pass you have a tack ever 2 inches.. repeat as necessary..

Soon you have a good repair.

On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 6:26 PM, clay via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:

> I actually read the destructions that came with the zapper.  I followed
> the set up to the letter and even made sure the wheels were in the proper
> orientation for the wire I was using.  There are no teeth to the wheels
> that would provide decent bite.  Just some knurling like you would find on
> a dime in the grooves.  I have the tension adjusted almost to the point of
> strangling the wire.  It does not speed up or make the wire feed properly.
>
> I am thinking the low speed setting is actually in Dummy mode.  Since
> there is no adjustment for heat, just speed, it could be a failsafe.   The
> lowest speeds must be regulated in such a manner that using it on thin
> sheet metal would not allow it to function long enough to burn through.
> Maybe it is set to feed tacks so you do not overheat and warp.  Sort of
> forcing you to start and stop against your will.
>
>
>
> clay
>
> 2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored chap
> 1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
> 1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
> 1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
> 1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
> POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 14, 2015, at 5:03 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
>
> > Just had a flash on something our new welder said in an earlier post
> about
> > the wire not feeding consistantly..
> >
> > I've never been into the bowels of a Harbor Fright unit.. but there
> should
> > be a "tension adjustment" on the wire feed motor. [everyone I've used to
> > date did have one.] If that tension is loose, the wire will not feed
> > exactly according to the "magic number on the dial"...
> >
> > Check that, why don't you.. And.. get a small roll of flux wire, not made
> > in china.
> >
> > On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 3:00 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Wasn't it Will Rodgers that said some people have to pee on the electric
> >> fence for themselves? Sounds like Clay has started peeing.
> >> When he runs out of the rotten HF wire that EVERYBODY says sucks and
> gets
> >> some better stuff maybe he'll believe the rest of the world on that too.
> >> -Curt
> >>      From: Jim Cathey via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> >> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> >> Cc: Jim Cathey <jim.cathey...@gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2015 5:05 PM
> >> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wut I dun Lernt frum Wulding this week
> >>
> >> Wire feed welders are nicknamed "glue guns".  Clearly, HF
> >> does not make one such.  Using the Miller on clean, reasonably
> >> thick sheet metal, and I understand the nickname.
> >>
> >> -- Jim
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________
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