If you have a marine (boating) store handy, Ancor makes heat-shrink crimp
connectors that include a heat-activated sealant.  They are pricey but very
effective.  Probably no more effective than Curley's silicone but easier to
use and they store indefinitely.  Great for harsh environments, like a wet
bilge.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
> Curly McLain via Mercedes
> Sent: Monday, July 13, 2015 10:36 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Cc: Curly McLain
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] '87 30TD rev counter.
> 
> Sounds like someone hacked it or the connector caused problems before.
> sounds like cutting out and replacing the butt connectors is the place to
begin.
> 
> I like filling shrink tubing with clear silicone seal over the connector,
then
> shrink the tubing to make a watertight (hopefully) repair.  That is how I
rig
> trailer lights.  Never had any trouble related to connectors with that
method.  I
> used to solder all the wire joints on trailers.
> 
> >Alles.There appears to be a long thin-ish wire from drivers to pass.
> >side right behind the engine with what looks like a taped-up trio of
> >butt connectors in line.Spelunking begin!
> >Thanks for all of the info and helpful suggestions, you guys are great!
> >Fred Moir.Lynn MA.Diesel preferred.
> >
> >>  Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2015 08:43:40 -0400
> >>  To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> >>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] '87 30TD rev counter.
> >>  From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> >>  CC: dillonm...@gmail.com
> >>
> >>  Fred,
> >>
> >>  The two pin connector for the tachometer sensor is, as Peter said,
> >>behind engine.  I'm pretty sure it is passenger side, between battery
> >>and HVAC/windshield wiper box.  If you follow wire from sensor, should
> >>be about three feet to get to the connector.  Sensor is driver side,
> >>near starter.  You'll probably need to remove the air/water ducting
> >>and rubber seals on the top of the firewall.
> >>  --
> >>  Max Dillon
> >>  Charleston SC
> >>  '87 300TD
> >>  '95 E300
> >
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> 
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