Last night I rigged a 10w test light bulb to the monovalve control signal
connector (21w is too big, overdraws the PBU and it shuts off to

The bulb test showed proper result for one test in the FSM: put the PBU
into off state (button 0 on the far right) and read voltage, which is
supposed to be over 11 volts nominal.  The bulb stayed on bright
continuously, indicating the monovalve would be held in the closed
position.  Voltage was 13 volts (engine running).

The other test result is undetermined.  With the temp. selector wheel on
"Min" and AC engaged, the bulb would stay lit for 3-4 seconds, then briefly
shut off for about half a second, and repeat that cycle.  I didn't try
reading the voltage with my cheapo DMM from Harbor Freight.

What says the collective wisdom?

Original problem I'm trying to solve is that the AC cooled air from the
side vents is warmer than the AC cooled air from the center vent.  Now I
don't have a full charge in the system, after I replaced the condenser I
put in just enough R134 to get the system running for an operational test
and check for leaks, and so it's only got about 10-12 oz of R134.  Maybe I
should fully charge and stop complaining?  I've got some hydrocarbon-based
refrigerant to test next.
Charleston SC

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