I always try a few blows with a regular hammer, I think only once have I
gotten lucky.

This tool was about $50 or so, bought back when Rusty was in business, and
I really like it.  Position, tighten up a bit and check to make sure it's
holding, crank it down nice and snug (three or four white knuckles of
torque), hammer the end contacting the threaded portion of the joint and
the joint usually pops right out after a couple hits.

Someday when I've got some time to play (maybe today, depending on weather)
I will try making a perfect box with string around the perimeter of the
car, then measure / adjust the toe-in.  Another way would be to make two
parallel lines with string, then drive the car between and measure/adjust.
Would be so nice to have a pit or a lift for this work.

Charleston SC

On Fri, Aug 7, 2015 at 10:11 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I've never had the tool.  I just back the nut off to flush, then pop it
> with a short handle 2 pounder.  That is done from the bottom, so no
> clearance problems Clarence.
> If one is really bad, i've used the pickle forks, but both of mine are
> gone now, so I just use the LFH.
> You can adjust toe fairly close with just a tape, the the homemade caliper
> works better.  I've never made the homemade caliper.

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