Yeah what they said. First is to put your mity-vac (HF sells a version for cheap but a "real" one is not that much anyway) on a hose near the brake booster where some branch off, and see if you are actually getting vacuum from the vac pump. The diaphragms tear in them over time and vacuum gradually decreases. Or it could be bad/cracked lines or tees up there under the hood, I ended up bodging some brass barbs and tees into the system by the brake booster because the plastic things were all brittle. Lines crack and leak too.

From that set of branches you can start testing what is leaking if the pump is sucking right, could be the brake booster diaphragm or anything in the door lock system. You can stick a pencil or a golf tee in those lines at the main tee there by the brake booster and see if that restores your brakes and shutoff, in which case you can leave the line going to the doors disconnected and at least have brakes and shutoff until you resolve the issue further downstream.

If you don't want to fool with it for now, get about 6 ft of vac line and run it to the shutoff then the other end into the cabin where you can get it, suck on it to shut off the car. You still won't have brakes but that will alleviate the shutoff process.

I have a writeup with pics on changing the vac pump diaphragm, it is not particularly hard just a bit fiddly.

--R



On 9/1/15 12:20 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:
RA writes:

‎ I am losing confidence in his >ability to properly
troubleshoot and repair the >system.
Any thoughts on where else to >look?
Buy a Mity Vac. Do it yourself.

It isn't too terribly difficult to T/S vacuum problems, but it is time 
consuming, and much like electrical troubleshooting, you must possess the 
ability to think logically, and in a straight line.
Isolate one system at a time, vacuum it down, etc.

I have a comprehensive vacuum troubleshooting guide I received from Craig 
several years ago. I can post it online, with a link if you wish.
‎
Rick
Sent from my BlackBerry Z10

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