My 240D acts similar but with the temp shifted down to 18-25F. Cranks a little 
more than I'd like and then I have to keep my foot into it for 10-15 seconds to 
get good idle. It'd stay running even without my pressing on the pedal but it'd 
lope and spit.
  In the past I've had these symptoms and changed the oil (just routine 
maintenance) and had them go away. With the coming of the 190D (soon, my wife's 
been sick) I'd rather not spend any money (probably change it to dino before I 
sell it. I know, I'm such bad person) so I've been stretching the change 
interval since it consumes alot of oil (5 or 6 quarts in 6,000 miles) I figure 
its probably consuming the contaminents too. At any rate I'm probably only just 
over the change interval. I usually change at 6,000 it might be around 6500.
  So anyway I figure Hammie needs a new battery, the one in it is at least 3 
years old, probably more like 4 1/2 and has been discharged several times. The 
plan is once I get the 190D back to put a new battery in it and keep the better 
of the two old ones for the 240D. The one currently in the 190D is rated higher 
(1000cca vs 900cca)  but I want to test them to see first. The 190D seems to 
spin quicker but I'm wondering if thats mostly because of the different engine.
  '83 240D "Hammie" 253kmi
  '85 190D "Dory" 233kmi
  Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 13:21:03 -0700
From: "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] OT: Smoky VW diesel when cold
To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: Joe Knight <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Hi all,

My 1981 VW Dasher diesel (1.5L, mechanical lifters) has been getting
crankier on cold starts lately. I did a valve adjustment a few months
ago to get things in spec so that shouldn't be a problem. Power and
MPG is normal (42-45mpg). It's just the cold starts that are a

When the car sits overnight, I'll do 2-3 glow cycles when it's cold
(30-40F), and I have a rudimentary 'afterglow' setup as well. But when
I start it, it runs quite rough, and smokes terribly for a good 10-15
seconds. I need to keep my foot halfway down to keep it running at all
until it smooths out. And for the first 30-45 seconds, it may even
misfire at times. The afterglow doesn't change things, it acts the
same with or with the plugs on when cold. The smoke is
blueish/whitish, and smells of both engine oil and fuel, so I can't
pin down what the cause is.

Warm starts are fine, glow plugs are all good and verified with
ohmmeter AND current draw test, and the car doesn't smoke
significantly when warm.

Any ideas?


Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] W126 Repair and PM kit
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Headlight washer wiper blades? Belt tensioner and shock on 603 engines --

That sure is a comprehensive list! -

On 2/1/06, Trampas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> All this talk about front ends and PM here is my list on the W126, let me
> know if I missed anything.
> Actually what I have found on W126 bodies is that when you purchase them =
> need the W126 repair kit which includes:
> Both guide rod bushings/bearings
> New lower ball joints (special press required)
> New idler arm
> New center drag link
> New left and right outer tie rod assemblies
> New shocks
> New steering damper
> Reseal PS box if needed.
> Rear sway bar arms/adapters
> New breaks
> Left and right Motor mount
> Fuel Filter(s)
> Oil Filter
> Air Filter
> Plug, Cap, Rotor, Wires (Gas engines)
> Valve cover gasket(s)
> Cam oil tube plastic pieces, especially on gas models
> Timing chain, if car has over 150k
> Water pump, if car is over 150k
> Diesel Purge (diesels)
> Air cleaner mounts (diesels and gas models)
> Oil filter 'o' ring (diesels)
> Replace oil filter to block gasket (diesels OM617)
> Injector overflow hoses (diesels) get spares
> Rubber fuel lines (Front and rear diesels)
> Rear high pressure fuel line (gas models) *** Very important ***
> Door check straps
> Foot well lights under door
> Wiper blades
> Brushes for alternator
> New belts
> New radiator hoses
> Thermostat
> New breaks, rotors, and front wheel bearings as needed.
> Brake dust shields for front wheels
> Transmission gear selector bushing
> Transmission filter kit
> Piece of tin to bolt on transmission mount so oil leak does not hit exhau=
> New set of fuses
> Spare Blower motor fuse
> Spare Bulbs (especially little odd tail light ones)
> If trip odometer broken then
> Check mono valve, replace if needed
> Hood pad
> New floor mats
> Repair all broken power windows and switches
> Exhaust hangers and spares
> Any buttons gone on power seat switches that are gone
> Replace sticker on HVAC temperature wheel
> Service Differential
> Resolder cruise control
> Check/replace center HVAC vacuum actuators
> Resolder HVAC vacuum solenoids on 1987 and newer (cut open black box to f=
> PCB)
> Check replace idle speed control system (gas models)
> Check replace fuse in over voltage protection relay (OVP relay)
> Replace ignition switch (mechanical part, yes it is bad)
> Replace springs in driver's front seat if needed
> Replace horse hair in driver's front seat (it is needed)
> Transmission rebuild and new B2 as needed.
> Drive shaft flex joints
> Did I miss anything?
> Trampas
> _______________________________________
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Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

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