No, there is still the screw, but you have to take off the inhalt manifold to get there. Simpler to take the alda loose, drop in a shim and put the alda back on. Test drive.

On a OM617, where

The mechanism gets worn to beyond what the screw can adjust. We are talking 30 year old cars now. The screw is still the official best way to do it, and if you don't mind spending a few thou for a new IP on a sub-$1000 heap, the screw is the preferred way to do it. But when you don't have an intake manifold gasket and parts take a week to get delivered or when the car is high mile and the screw may well be at the end of adjustment, a shim works. It might give you back some adjustment

In the case of my 300D, if i'd wanted to take off the manifold, have the car down a week waiting for parts, and adjust the screw, I may have been able to fine tune the fuel delivery with the screw, or put in the shim and then gain adjustment range with the screw.

In the case of the heap, I doubt the screw was ever adjusted in 29 years, because the seal cap was still on top of the ALda. I could see it, but you can't adjust the screw with the manifold on anyway, so i left it alone.

BTW, I change the Glow plugs with the manifold on too. Faster and cheaper that way.

A big positive for these methods is that you DON"T have to break open the injector lines, and risk introducing fine particles into the injection system to damage or ruin the nozzles.

Personally, I have never adjusted the screw. They either run or are sluggish. Most of the time the sluggisnness is cured by blowing out the vacuum line to the manifold. In this case, that made no difference, and never a puff of soot when the turbo kicks in. it felt like the turbo never kicks in. So, time for a shim. Since I rarely drive the heap out of town, the shim was a low priority.

The heap is more fun to drive now. Last week I beat out a fairly hot car at a stoplight. That's never happened before. It could not beat a 240D 4 speed before.


So in order to adjust the ALDA on the 603, you have to shim it as opposed to adjusting a screw like on the 617?

Dan

On Sep 3, 2015, at 12:23 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

There were posts, and I think a McMaster part number for that some years ago. Not having a mcmaster any where near, and not wanting to pay $10 shipping for a 50¢ part, I take the copper washer for the OM603 (124) oil filter center bolt, as they are not used in the SDL, then put that copper washer over a needlenose pliers, and pull the pliers apart, stretching the washer oval. Turn 90º and repeat. repeat until the washer is big enough to fit over the alda guts, but still small enough to fit inside the threads.

A ring sizer or other tapered round is good for changing it back in to a circle from the oval. I don't have a ring sizer, so I just do the best I can with the needlenose pliers. It is not an exact science.

This results in a copper washer about 1/16" thick and maybe 2 mm wide in cross section.

There ore other ways to do it, but since I always have oil filters, one of these washers is always handy. I throw the copper washers/rings etc I don't use into a can near the oil filter stash

I tried on in the 300D one tme, but it was overkill, so I took it out and jest left it the way it was. That car had only about 200K miles at the time, so not too badly worn. The winter heap SDL has about 500k miles.

If you had a steel ring sizer and a brass hammer, you can stretch the washer with those tools by tap and turn the same as a jeweler enlarges a ring.


Curly, is there a standard thickness for the proper shim, or do you use the Booth method?
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD
 '95 E300

On September 3, 2015 10:31:46 AM EDT, Curly McLain via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

 I just shimmed the alda in my winter heap (finally) and it is much
 >>> better.  It accelerates with some spirit,  but still not what I'd
 call properly tuned.  Still no puffs of soot when you get on it, but
 it was sedate to the point of being near a 240D auto.


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