Gotcha.

So this is the engine with the intake that loops over the top of the engine and 
makes stuff hard to get to?

My diesel experience ended wit the M617.

I often recall tweaking the ALDA on these engines.  Such a nice bump 
performance-wise.  The 85 300CD I had would chirp the tires in second gear 
after I tuned up the ALDA.

Dan



> On Sep 3, 2015, at 2:23 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> No, there is still the screw, but you have to take off the inhalt manifold to 
> get there. Simpler to take the alda loose, drop in a shim and put the alda 
> back on.  Test drive.
> 
> On a OM617, where
> 
> The mechanism gets worn to beyond what the screw can adjust.  We are talking 
> 30 year old cars now. The screw is still the official best way to do it, and 
> if you don't mind spending a few thou for a new IP on a sub-$1000 heap, the 
> screw is the preferred way to do it.  But when you don't have an intake 
> manifold gasket and parts take a week to get delivered or when the car is 
> high mile and the screw may well be at the end of adjustment, a shim works.  
> It might give you back some adjustment
> 
> In the case of my 300D, if i'd wanted to take off the manifold, have the car 
> down a week waiting for parts, and adjust the screw,  I may have been able to 
> fine tune the fuel delivery with the screw, or put in the shim and then gain 
> adjustment range with the screw.
> 
> In the case of the heap, I doubt the screw was ever adjusted in 29 years, 
> because the seal cap was still on top of the ALda.  I could see it, but you 
> can't adjust the screw with the manifold on anyway, so i left it alone.
> 
> BTW, I change the Glow plugs with the manifold on too.  Faster and cheaper 
> that way.
> 
> A big positive for these methods is that you DON"T have to break open the 
> injector lines, and risk introducing fine particles into the injection system 
> to damage or ruin the nozzles.
> 
> Personally, I have never adjusted the screw. They either run or are sluggish. 
>  Most of the time the sluggisnness is cured by blowing out the vacuum line to 
> the manifold.  In this case, that made no difference, and never a puff of 
> soot when the turbo kicks in.  it felt like the turbo never kicks in.  So, 
> time for a shim.  Since I rarely drive the heap out of town, the shim was a 
> low priority.
> 
> The heap is more fun to drive now.  Last week I beat out a fairly hot car at 
> a stoplight.  That's never happened before.  It could not beat a 240D 4 speed 
> before.
> 
> 
>> So in order to adjust the ALDA on the 603, you have to shim it as opposed to 
>> adjusting a screw like on the 617?
>> 
>> Dan
>> 
>>> On Sep 3, 2015, at 12:23 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
>>> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> There were posts, and I think a McMaster part number for that some years 
>>> ago.  Not having a mcmaster any where near, and not wanting to pay $10 
>>> shipping for a 50¢ part, I take the copper washer for the OM603 (124) oil 
>>> filter center bolt, as they are not used in the SDL, then put that copper 
>>> washer over a needlenose pliers, and pull the pliers apart, stretching the 
>>> washer oval.  Turn 90º and repeat.  repeat until the washer is big enough 
>>> to fit over the alda guts, but still small enough to fit inside the threads.
>>> 
>>> A ring sizer or other  tapered round is good for changing it back in to a 
>>> circle from the oval.  I don't have a ring sizer, so  I just do the best I 
>>> can with the needlenose pliers.  It is not an exact science.
>>> 
>>> This results in a copper washer about 1/16" thick and maybe 2 mm wide in 
>>> cross section.
>>> 
>>> There ore other ways to do it, but since I always have oil filters, one of 
>>> these washers is always handy.  I throw the copper washers/rings etc I 
>>> don't use into a can near the oil filter stash
>>> 
>>> I tried on in the 300D one tme, but it was overkill, so I took it out and 
>>> jest left it the way it was.  That car had only about 200K miles at the 
>>> time, so not too badly worn.  The winter heap SDL has about 500k miles.
>>> 
>>> If you had a steel ring sizer and a brass hammer, you can stretch the 
>>> washer with those tools by tap and turn the same as a jeweler enlarges a 
>>> ring.
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> Curly, is there a standard thickness for the proper shim, or do you use 
>>>> the Booth method?
>>>> --
>>>> Max Dillon
>>>> Charleston SC
>>>> '87 300TD
>>>> '95 E300
>>>> 
>>>>> On September 3, 2015 10:31:46 AM EDT, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
>>>>> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> I just shimmed the alda in my winter heap (finally) and it is much
>> >>> better.  It accelerates with some spirit,  but still not what I'd
>>>>> call properly tuned.  Still no puffs of soot when you get on it, but
>>>>> it was sedate to the point of being near a 240D auto.
>>>> 
>>>> 
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>> 
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> 
> 
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