Curly, et al.
I have used crimp connector successfully for years. The crimper that I use is a 
Thomas and Betts staking crimper. This has a small 'tang' in the crimping area 
that welds the connector and the wire together by pressure. Makes the crimp 
almost impossible to undo, though I tried it out of curiosity once, very 
difficult and a mess when finished. The 'standard' crimpers are worthless, all 
that they do is squeeze the connector tube into a sort of oval. To be complete, 
the join must be a gas-tight connection. Electricians use pliers, usually Klein 
Tools, or some copy made in a faraway place, to crimp copper caps over wires 
for grounds, (usually). So, with the correct tool, crimping butt connectors 
does work. There are also butt connectors that have glue in them to form an 
heat activated shrink seal after crimping. I have used that type to attach the 
wires to a well pump that still works as designed, lo these many years.
Confused yet?
YMMV
Fred

________________________________________
From: Mercedes <mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com> on behalf of Curly McLain via 
Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: 08 December 2015 15:37
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Cc: Curly McLain
Subject: [MBZ] Butchers:  Best splice for high current wires

This apparently didn't go out, but seems some may have seen it.

In case all y'all have not been following the saga of POSitive, the
"new" 87 300D, tonight I found the butchers had cut all the wires in
back of the ign switch, rather than umplug the plug and plug it into
a new switch, and hat would have been unnecessary had they simply
replaced the ign key lock with a new key lock.

One wire was burned clear through, one hanging by a few strands and a
couple more fell out of the butt connectors when I started moving
things around.

the wires on plug were cut very near the plug, so the first order is
to get another plug with wires long enough to splice.

that brings up the question:

What is the best way to splice  the wires to allow full  current?
Several are roughly 10 GA and the purple is maybe 20 ga.   If there
was room to get the harness out to work on it, I'd solder em with a
torch.  There is no room for that under the dash.    We know the
heater burned 25 amp fuses, leading to the separate 30 amp strip fuse
under the hood.

The butchers used crimp on butt connectors, leading to the heater/acc
wire burning through and others are less than good connections.   The
best solution is to take out the whole donor harness and replace it,
but I have the feeling that would be perhaps worse than an
evapectomy.  Some splice should work.  I don't thing there is enough
room in there for wire nuts.  Wire nuts allow near full current with
little loss.

What's the best way to splice wires without taking up a lot of space
or soldering the splice?
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