Use a 4x4 with a wider plate on top, and lower the car a bit - - or place
the 4x4 on a floor jack and raise the post, so you can put a hole in the
pan like I did!

On Sun, Dec 20, 2015 at 12:25 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I have probably 18-20' ceilings in mine, I have not measured it.  So when
> doing things just as trans r&r, or maybe changing motor mounts where I
> would previously put a jack under the engine and jack it up a little bit,
> how does that work with a lift?  Do they sell tall jack stand deals to put
> your jack on?
>
>
> On 12/20/2015 11:49 AM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
>
>> I have a two post lift, 9,000lb. Symmetrical arms. Hydraulic over Chain
>> [one main hydraulic pump, one master hydraulic cylinder connected by chain
>> for each upright.]  Manufacturer is Rotary Lift Company.
>>
>> The lift arms are long enough to allow access to vehicle doors [unless you
>> are XXXL size], however, interior work is better if you plan ahead and do
>> it before you put the vehicle on the lift, as much as possible.
>>
>> Ceiling clearance is a consideration. most home garages lack interior
>> clearance to accommodate a lift. If your building is on commercial scale,
>> you may be good.
>>
>> Having a lift at your beck and call will make life easy in ways you have
>> not imagined. Jobs that you previously planned a week for will take you a
>> couple hours. I use mine to pull engines, drop transmissions, brakes, etc
>> etc.. all while standing or adjusted to comfortable working height. A roll
>> tool box and a work table on wheels puts the world at your fingertips.
>>
>> Don't forget an intercom, so you can order lunch on time.. ;))
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Dec 20, 2015 at 10:02 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>
>> My shop is pretty much built commercial grade and there was a lift in
>>> there previously, so I think I am good in that regard.  Just since since
>>> posting them one more thing has popped up, chain drive or direct drive.
>>>
>>>
>>> On 12/20/2015 11:00 AM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes wrote:
>>>
>>> Just be sure you construct the proper base for the posts, which will
>>>> likely mean digging out a part of your (existing) floor and digging and
>>>> rebarring a proper footing with the bolts embedded.
>>>>
>>>> And bigger is always better.  I have seen a couple on CL recently for
>>>> about $2k but no details on them.
>>>>
>>>> --R
>>>>
>>>> On 12/20/15 11:54 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Any of you cheap lazy folks have a 2 post lift in your shop?  I have
>>>>> been looking at them for a while and a few questions come to mind on
>>>>> what
>>>>> to look for.
>>>>>
>>>>> 1. Most work will be on MB, but will also work on my 3/4 ton truck and
>>>>> suburban.  9k or worth the extra $100 or so for a 10k lift?
>>>>>
>>>>> 2. Symmetrical or asymmetrical?  Asymmetrical seems to give you more
>>>>> clearance to open the doors.  Some or most of the lists seem to have
>>>>> asymmetrical arms but do not appear to be true asymmetrical lifts as
>>>>> in the
>>>>> columns are rotated in slightly as opposed to pointing directly across
>>>>> to
>>>>> each other
>>>>>
>>>>> 3. Single point or 2 point release?
>>>>>
>>>>> 4. I assume the highest lift I can find and the largest width between
>>>>> columns I can find for the most room.
>>>>>
>>>>> Anything else I should be looking for?
>>>>>
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>>>>>
>>>>>
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>
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-- 
OK Don

*“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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