Thanks Max! I do have the CDs on the way from Manfred. Other than that
Google has been my friend....

I would LOVE to get the print versions. Andrew had those and they were
really nice. I will find them at some point and get them.

Kyle

On Jan 3, 2017 9:46 AM, "Max Dillon via Mercedes" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:

> I'd add: service manuals.
>
> MB used to sell them on CD, they may still.  I think they are available
> on-line, startek info?  The digital version is not nearly as nice as paper
> copies (look on eBay for those, multiple manuals required (engine, chassis,
> electrical, HVAC)).
>
> Digital version: menu system is terrible, get Steve Nervig's index.
> --
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '87 300TD
> '95 E300
>
> On December 29, 2016 12:45:32 AM EST, Curley McLain via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >For Kyle and any other new subscribers:
> >
> >We buy our parts from many sources.  Some are better on one item and
> >not
> >another.  Some have free shipping over some $$$ amount.  All these
> >variables  mean that we all order from several places and don't settle
> >on just one source.  When you want to order something, consult the
> >list,
> >someone may have recently done the research.
> >
> >Avoid Uro brand.  Junk.  That said, I did just order a couple of jack
> >pads for a 124 from crockauto, because I was ordering stuff from there,
> >
> >I had a credit, they only had uro and the uro crap was only $5 for two,
> >
> >and it is non-critical.  But don't buy uro suspension parts, or you
> >WILL
> >be doing it over soon.
> >
> >Some of the sources, in no particular order.
> >rockauto.com  (high shipping)
> >fcpeuro.com
> >rmeuropean.com
> >Autohausaz.com
> >
> >FLoyd can add the stealer in charleston that has good prices online,
> >but
> >you need to look up part numbers first on the parts site of Mercedes
> >Benz of South Atlanta first.   I keep South atlanta in one tab and the
> >charleston place in another tab.  (sorry, I have not ordered from MB
> >for
> >several months, I don't remember the websites.)   SOme items are MB
> >only.
> >
> >Here are a few specifics about routine maintenance items.  (from 40
> >years of owning and working on MB Diesels)(curmudgeon status)
> >
> >1. Oil filters:  NEVER buy fram.  In a pinch use Wix.  Always order and
> >
> >keep one or two filters on hand.  Mann, or Hengst from any good
> >supplier
> >of foreign car parts.
> >2.  Transmission filters: Mann only, and buy the pan gasket separately,
> >
> >On a 123, elring is acceptable, and generally come with a gasket.
> >3.   Fuel filters: mann or Hengst preferred for the spin on (Main)
> >filter.  In a pinch, use Wix.  (Oreally carries wix)
> >4.  Belts:  Buy Continental.  They outlast all others in my
> >experience.   (by 2-4 times)
> >5.  the R4 a/c compressor IS different on the inside than a stock GM
> >one.  If you have to buy one, make verdamt sure it is for Mercedes.  I
> >will only buy a new R4.  Use r12 if you can.  DON'T convert to R123a,
> >ever.  (I am a slow learner on this count too, but I don't live in FLA,
> >
> >and don't use A/C that much.
> >6. Ask andy how old the accumulators are on this car.  They MUST be
> >replaced in pairs.  NO URO crap accumulators.  (andy was a slow learner
> >
> >on this count.)  When the rear feels like there are no springs, put in
> >new accumulators, and it is a good time to change the suspension
> >fluid.   (Consult the PO about when the fluid was changed last)  every
> >2
> >years or so is a good rule of thumb.
> >7.  ONLY use the right fluid for the suspension.  Pentosin or MB.
> >Maybe
> >febi is available now in the US.  If you don't, the price of the rear
> >struts will make you WISH you did!
> >8.  Brake fluid: RMEuropean has Febi brake fluid that is real DOT4.
> >NEVER use DOT3 brake fluid.  If you do, the cost of buying all new
> >calipers, hoses and MC will make you WISH you didn't.  Brake fluid is
> >supposed to be changed every 2 years to flush out the water.  Few of us
> >
> >do, but at least 3-4 years and you'd better change it.  If you change
> >it
> >religiously at 2 years, your brake parts will last longer.  The factory
> >
> >guys in 1985 were not dumb)    (now?????)
> >I have successfully converted MBs to DOT5 silicon, but you want to run
> >DOT4 for a few months if you change any of the hoses or calipers.  The
> >DOT4 seals the hoses so the DOT5 won't seep.
> >FLAPS will want to sell you this DOT3/4 crap.  maybe it is ok, I don't
> >know.  For years I used Castrol GT brake fluid, but it is now near
> >unobtanium.  I ordered 4 liters of the febi stuff last spring.  I am
> >happy as a clam now, and so is the 240D i overhauled the brake system
> >on.  It is now all FEBI.   I don't want to experiment with the DOT 3/4
> >crap.  Not on MY brakes!
> >9.  Buy a meter of the hose for the fuel return lines from the
> >injectors, or you can buy some viton 1/8" ID hose from  Mc
> >master-carr.   The oe stuff needs to be replaced every year or 3.  Keep
> >
> >it in the glove box.  If one blows out on a trip, it will empty your
> >fuel tank fast.  Even 12" in the glove box will fix any blowout on a
> >trip.
> >10.  Per Larry's recent GP outage, buy a couple of GP fuses (80 amp:
> >000 545 03 34 ) and keep them in a plastic bag in the glove box.  If
> >your car has the 30 amp flat strip fuse for the blower mounted on the
> >inner fender, put a couple of them in the same bag.
> >11.  It is not a bad idea to carry 1 or 2 spare GPs in the glove box
> >also.
> >12.  When you need to replace light bulbs, buy the German brands or
> >Osram.  Better fit, finish and quality.
> >13.  Always keep the clamps on the injector lines.  You DON'T want one
> >to break 200 mile from home!
> >14.  Never break open an injector line unless the lines, nuts and area
> >is cleaner than your hospital's OR.   Wash with fuel, blow it out with
> >air, repeat as needed.
> >14:  If you smell raw diesel while driving, stop and investigate.  You
> >probably have a leak in one of the return lines.
> >15.  put a dose of biobor or similar biocide in the fuel tank once a
> >month in your climate.  It will keep the nasty black slime of death
> >from
> >ruining your IP.  Or you can dose it at every fill.  (it won't hurt)
> >The bigs grow when the fuel os over 80ºF, and that is most of the time
> >where you are.
> >16.  If you ever have transmission problems, don't trust the local
> >shop.  Call Sun Valley and get an accurate appraisal.  If you need a
> >transmission replaced, sun Valley is the ONLY place to get one.  Great
> >people, and if you buy one anywhere else that is any good, it came from
> >
> >sun valley anyway.  If it didn't come from sun valley, don't waste your
> >
> >money.  It won't cost you any more to get the good one from Sun Valley.
> >
> >they generally last 250k to 400k, or maybe more.
> >17.The MB diesels will run on B99 or B100.  You want at least B5 to
> >increase the lubricity of ULSD.  On used fry oil, you will be buying an
> >
> >injector pump.  You decide if the increased maintenance cost is worth
> >any fuel savings and decreased reliability.
> >
> >
> >oil: M1 15W-50  For OM621, 636, 615, 616, 617, 601, 602, 603 engines
> >(only several hundred oil threads in the archive)  (I was a slow
> >learner, but eventually, I came around)  (amsoil is good too.  If you
> >want some, Larry is a dealer)  Some use dino oil, but if you put 15k or
> >
> >more miles on the car in a year, the M1 is worth the price.
> >Oil Analysis:  Our own Larry does oil analysis, contact him for
> >details.
> >
> >Dan's yer man for all interior and exterior product recommendations.
> >
> >This is my opinion, gleaned over 40+ years and near a million miles of
> >almost never needing to picked up on the roadside.  Others will have
> >and
> >will offer other opinions.
> >
> >Join in guys.  Make the list better.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________
> >http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> >To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> _______________________________________
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>
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