OK it looks like my HF code reader picked up 4 codes off the OBDII port:
P0380
P1369
P0100
P0400
Details below but looks like
P0380 is a bad glow plug or relay or something
P1369 looks like a bad glow plug #5 or 6
P0100 Bad mass air flow sensor ($178!!!! cleaner $7)
P0400 EGR malfunction (EGR valve maybe? or relay or solenoid or
something? Or maybe just a vacuum leak per below)
It seems that changing GPs on this car is a complete PITA but I guess
that is what is needed if the relay is passing juice. I think it is as
the car will start though the battery seems to be running down fairly
quickly after sitting a few days, I'm wondering if something is stuck
pulling electrons.
Looks like a little diagnosis time...
--FT
(there is a bunch of stuff below I am using this email as a repository,
maybe someone else will find it useful!)
P0380 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit A Malfunction
P1369 Engine Temperature Light Monitor Failure
Does the temp light come on when you start the car? I think it is on, on
my car during the glow period. It's a red light that looks like a
thermometer next to the temp gauge.
P1 369 is for a bad Glow Plug as posted!!
I thought P1_369 was a bad #5 or 6 GP???
Is your GP light on?
I had a glow plug go bad it was #5 plug (code P1369, #5 cyl Ign cir
short) I changed all the plugs & also Glowplug relay (I messed this up
during my checking trying to undo a tight nut on power supply) but the
check engine light is still on with still the same code. Will this
eventually go out or is this a dealer reset situation.
Code P1369 - 5cyl - ignition circuit short to ground - Would
anybody be willing to explain what it means and how to fix it.
Thank you.
That is self-explanatory, the ignition key is grounding out, it
probably needs to be replaced. What is the car doing?
I am getting the following errors.
P0380---faulty glow plug relay
P1369---faulty glow plug
My questions is are both bad or is one causing the other? Each morning
the glow plug light functions properly for the first start but after
that it give the error each time. I hate to spend the money on a relay
if the plugs are the problem but I also hate to change the plugs if its
just the relay. Is there any way to know which it is or if it is both?
Would really like to fix this before winter sets in.
I have been down this road several times with my 99 E300-TD and, to my
mind, the only solution is to do whatever is necessary to prevent future
occurences. This is a very expensive, but necessary, maintenance item.
Approximately each 100k km I have experienced these symptoms and have
concluded that one or more glow plug is faulty. Given the labour to
remove and replace the glow plugs, I change all six plugs, even though
only one or two have failed. On the last visit, at @ 300k km, the relay
was found to be "intermittent" and was also changed. This is about a
$1000 proposition but, to my mind, cheaper that the 3-4 major tune ups
that an equivalent gasoline engine would have required during the same
100km.
That is why I would check the resistance of the individual glow plugs
first! If they check out, then test the relay.
At first glance I can't see how the glow plug fault would fault the
relay. The relay is either on for a period of time and passes voltage
then off or it's always off or always on, both of the later create
faults. Good luck
the car computer can sense something wrong with the circuit, but can not
pinpoint the bad item. That what multimeter is for.
If the engine starts fine in the morning, that is indication at least
some plugs work, meaning the relay is good.
so if the relay tests fine it could be throwing the code only because of
the plugs or vice versa? just want to get an idea if i will probably
need to replace the relay no matter what or if there is a chance it is
ok and the plugs are just confusing it.
Those systems are fool proof. The relay is either open or closed,
voltage does not get to the glow plug(s) or regardless of key position
voltage is on and your battery drains.
You must test each glow plugs resistance, if they are low say 6-8 ohms
they are still good. Then test the voltage at the relay, with the key in
0 and 2. If you get 12V with key at zero------whoooooooooooooops. If you
get 12V after car runs for three minutes--------------whoooooooooooooops.
The relay is about 150 bucks.
"Engine Temperature Light Monitor Failure" (P1369)
P0100 Hot-film mass-air sensor ME-SFI fault code description
P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction
P2004 B2/5 (HFM sensor)(P0100)
P2004 B2/5 (Hot film MAF sensor)(P0100)
P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction
P2001 Malfunction of exhaust gas recirculation (functional chain)(P0400)
https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-forum/600047-96-e300-diesel-check-engine-light-p0400-car-jerks-when-shifts-gears.html
I own a '96 E300 Diesel with 240,000 miles and it has been running
perfectly. A few weeks ago I had the oil changed, differential fluid
changed, the steering fluid flushed and changed and the Coolant flushed
and chaged. As soon as i started driving the car once the place finished
the job the check engine light came on and the car would shift each gear
with a rather violent jerk. I took it back the next day and they checked
the codes and came up with a P0400 and P0380 ( p0380 which comes on and
off and i have had it checked-- think it might just be a error in the
computer) but the p0400 is a new one and it has to do with the EGR
Valve. But i didnt have any idea that the EGR valve could affect the
transmission. Can anyone help me figure out what might be going on?
Thanks and let me know if you need more information!
Check for any disconnected vacuum lines in the engine bay, you may have
knocked one off accidentally. Both the modulator for the transmission
(adjusts how hard/softly the gearbox shifts gears) and the EGR are
vacuum operated so this sounds the most likely.
On the front of the engine is a vacuum pump with a large bore plastic
pipe leading to the brake booster. Start at the pump, there are some
small hoses that attach straight to it and there may also be one that
leads from the vacuum hose at the brake booster. Start with these areas.
P0400 on aW210 diesel is a faulty EGR valve pressure transducer!!
But before you are run around the may pole change the filter(95) clear
the fault and if the fault returns then its the transducer!!
I checked the lines that i could and i found one with a yellow tip
inserted into somewhere else that was pulled out about halfway, i pushed
it back in and it shifts completely normally now! Im shocked at how such
a small problem can cause something completely unrelated (or so i
thought) to act abnormally like the car had been! Thank you! Do you know
where i can find a new line to replace since it is 19 years old and
would probably prevent it from loosening again if replaced! Ill post a
photo of the line i saw loose in a little while!
EGR (Exhaust Gas Recycle) blocked or faulty as the code states.
When OPEN this allows exhaust gas into the inlet manifold to REDUCE
performance and thus combustion pressure/temp.
CEL Check Engine Light comes on because this causes NOx levels to rise
which means that the car will fail its annual inspection.
The light is advising you to take the carto a gargae to have it fixed.
Replace or clean EGR..
Look for loose or disconnected vacuum connections. Start at the EGR.
The codes you mention can be caused by any one of a number of sensors.
There are the two sensors on the side of the air intake filter box which
have the same part number. One controls the resonance flaps, and the
other controls the egr valve. On my model, those two vacuum pressure
transducers also receive a signal from an intake manifold sensor that is
located on the left wheel well, and has a small black rubber hose
attached to the intake manifold. Then there is the actual throttle
position sensor itself located near the drivers side firewall. You
mention that you changed out the glow plugs, and that may have required
the crossover pipe to be removed. I changed out my plugs, and when I
reinstalled the crossover pipe, one of the small wires connected to the
resonance flap control broke, and when I went to start the car, I
immediately got a code. Those connection plugs are small and it is very
easy to damage the wiring. Along with checking the vacuum lines as
already suggested, I would also remove each electrical plug, spray it
with electronics cleaner, and reinstall it. Hope this helps...
Pull a vac on EGR and make sure it moves. If it does then work your way
back from there looking for blockages.
If my memory serves me right, the first time I took the intake manifold
off I had the same problem and it was simply I forgot to reattach the
short small vaccum hose that connects the intake manifold to the MAP
sensor which is attached to the "sound wall" by the master cylinder. If
the vacuum hose is connected properly I'd still check to make sure the
hose or the fitting isn't blocked with muck from your cleaning of the
intake manifold or alternatively cracked and leaking.
I just had been monkeying with the EGR and Res Flap transducers and
vacuum tubing. I could not get rid of my P0400. Then I read this, and
popped the hood to find the vacuum tube for the intake pressure sensor
rotted. Installed a new tubing and blisssss
Just to close this thread....it was one of the vacuum lines off of the
intake manifold that was not connected. Upon checking the vacuum lines
that were accessible some were brittle so all were changed as
well....Codes went away.
I wanted to add my recent p0400 code reading. About a month ago I did a
complete Biodiesel Submerge with my entire intake. Upon reassembly and
start up, a new check engine code P0400 appeared. I took the intake
apart 4 times since trying to get this thing to clear. Cleaned all the
parts associated with the EGR system. I noticed that on the cross over
tube that the mechanism that controls the flapper had a sudden pause in
movement. This was caused by the biodiesel somewhat drying out the
plastic and not letting it move smoothly, or even buildup. Check both
flappers on the cross over tube and underside of the intake body that
they move smoothly. If they don't, in my case it'll pop the code. I also
cleaned out all the electronic connections with cleaner. All codes are
now gone.
There's some simple tests that can determine basic EGR functioning. I
found that collapsing the EGR would cause the engine to slow in speed,
signifying proper functioning. There's a number of things that can cause
this. Just keep checking and rechecking.
MODEL YEARS CHASSIS ENGINE TRANSMISSION STEERING
E300 Turbo Diesel
1998-99
210.025
606.962 IFI
722.608
768.002
E300 Turbo Diesel 1998-99 210.025 606.962 IFI 722.608 768.002
3.0 24V TD I6 <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Straight-six_engine>
177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) 330 N·m (243 lb·ft) OM606.962 8.4 - 7.6
Mercedes E300 Turbodiesel 1997-1999
Technical data
Year:
1997-1999
Body style:
Sedan
Lenght:
4795 cm
Width:
1799 cm
Height:
1437 cm
Weight:
1.630 kg
Fuel economy:
12 km/l
Displacement:
2.996 cc
Acceleration:
9 seconds
Top speed:
220 km/h
Fuel capacity:
65 litre
Engine:
606.962
Transmission automatic:
722.608
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