One big difference between factory and repair/replacement is that the
factory assembled the engine and accessories out of the car, then I
think for the 123s and later, the engine/trans is put on the subframes
on a sled, then the body is lowered onto the subframes/sled. When the
manuals are written, they start with a shiny clean new car.
As more and more subsystems are hung on vehicles, it gets more and more
difficult to do repairs in the field. The 85 calif 300Ds, being at the
end of life for that design (being manufactured) are more difficult to
work on than a 1977 300D. Some of these real life circumstances make
keeping a gasket in place during (often blind) assembly much more
important than it was at the factory.
If it is possible to put in a gasket dry, then I do. There have been
times where I can't wait a week for the right gasket, so I use a
little blue goo with or without the remains of the old gasket. I've
never had a problem with this in somewhere around 40 years of doing this.
If you are fortunate enough to be able to get parts the same day, that
is great. In the 80s, I could get almost anything within two days. But
in the past 25 years it has been a week to get parts unless Rusty paid
the difference for two day fedex out of the goodness of his heart. This
fall it took over 2 weeks to get a stupid IP gasket from the CC for an
OM616. That is one that must have a new gasket and no Blue goo or other
gunk.
YMMV
Rick Knoble via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
January 29, 2018 at 8:44 AM
I prefer to glue the gasket to the removable part (easier to clean in
the future)
with High Tack, and apply a thin layer of Hylomar on the block (or
stationary) side
of the gasket. I suggested Permatex #2 because Hylomar is not readily
available (FLAPS).
To each his own,
YMMV,
Rick
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