One big difference between factory and repair/replacement is that the factory assembled the engine and accessories out of the car, then I think for the 123s and later, the engine/trans is put on the subframes on a sled, then the body is lowered onto the subframes/sled. When the manuals are written, they start with a shiny clean new car.

As more and more subsystems are hung on vehicles, it gets more and more difficult to do repairs in the field. The 85 calif 300Ds, being at the end of life for that design (being manufactured) are more difficult to work on than a 1977 300D. Some of these real life circumstances make keeping a gasket in place during (often blind) assembly much more important than it was at the factory.

If it is possible to put in a gasket dry, then I do. There have been times where I can't wait a week for the right gasket, so I use a little blue goo with or without the remains of the old gasket. I've never had a problem with this in somewhere around 40 years of doing this.

If you are fortunate enough to be able to get parts the same day, that is great. In the 80s, I could get almost anything within two days. But in the past 25 years it has been a week to get parts unless Rusty paid the difference for two day fedex out of the goodness of his heart. This fall it took over 2 weeks to get a stupid IP gasket from the CC for an OM616. That is one that must have a new gasket and no Blue goo or other gunk.

Rick Knoble via Mercedes <>
January 29, 2018 at 8:44 AM

I prefer to glue the gasket to the removable part (easier to clean in the future) with High Tack, and apply a thin layer of Hylomar on the block (or stationary) side of the gasket. I suggested Permatex #2 because Hylomar is not readily available (FLAPS).

To each his own,



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