IIRC poor Rich can't get the darn car to run, so all this debate about the
type of oil is kinda off point.  He needs to get it up and running FIRST
before worrying about M1 vs. Delvac.  My recommendation would be to check
the fuel tank filter (screen) if he has not already done so.

On Thu, May 17, 2018 at 10:34 AM, Dan--- via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com
> wrote:

> That’s a function of the detergents, I believe.  Using that logic,
> wouldn’t it make sense to have fresher oil in the engine to get the most
> benefit from the additives?
>
> I’ve only had one car in my life that showed a noticeable difference from
> running synthetic oil in it, and I’m not totally convinced it was the
> reason why the lifters quieted down, as part of the problem was a few bad
> oil tubes.  In fact, running synthetic in my 400E has caused the thing to
> leak like a sieve.  I’m going to change it back to high mileage Dino juice
> to (hopefully) get the seals to swell up.
>
> Again, I’m no maniac about oil types. I use both.  In some cars I do it
> based on manufacturer’s recommendations, in others, fiscal concerns.
>
> -D
>
> > On May 17, 2018, at 10:06 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > So what about the supposed benefit of cleaning out the engine and
> keeping it clean, and supposedly quieting down lifters?
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On May 17, 2018, at 7:35 AM, Dan--- via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Mobil1 averages about $26/5 quarts. I can buy 2-1/2 gallons of Delo 400
> LE for $26.00, which makes it about $2.60/quart, or half the price of
> Mobil1.  I’m not sure where you’re buying filters for $8.00, I’m paying
> around $10.00 for Mann or Hengst.
> >>
> >> So a five quart oil change is actually under $25.00.
> >>
> >> If you’re doing oil analysis properly, and as someone who did oil
> analysis on literally thousands of diesel industrial engines from maybe 50
> to 2500 HP for many years, you’re sampling on a regular basis, let’s say
> twice a year.  That’s what, $40-$50?
> >>
> >> So if you sample and use M1, you’re spending roughly $75/year with a
> single oil change based on 10k/miles/year.  If I change twice a year based
> on time or interval (5k intervals) with no sampling, I’m spending $50.
> >>
> >> So I’m running fresher oil for $25 less a year.  As I stated
> previously, if Mobil1 wasn’t a group 3 base stock I would go that route.
> However, since they downgraded the product I don’t see a lot of value in
> using it over more frequent changes using Dino oil.
> >>
> >> To each his/her own, of course. That’s just my take on it.
> >>
> >> -D
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> On May 17, 2018, at 8:01 AM, Curt Raymond <curtlud...@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Can I see the breakdown of costs please? I don't believe I pay $70 for
> a change with M1. $30/gallon on sale, $8 for a filter...
> >>>
> >>> Curt
> >>>
> >>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> >>>
> >>> On Wed, May 16, 2018 at 6:00 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
> >>> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>> Good quality diesel oil like Delo 400 LE is cheap.  I can do a
> complete change with Delo 400 LE on the 95 E300D for under $35 every 5000
> miles and not have concerns.  If I used Mobil1 it would be near twice the
> cost.  Since Mobil1 is a group 3 base stock it’s not that much better than
> conventional dino juice in my opinion.
> >>>
> >>> Oh yeah, if I drop another $20 on oil analysis I’ve driven my costs up
> even more.
> >>>
> >>> -D
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> On May 16, 2018, at 8:50 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>> So what about the supposed benefit of cleaning out the engine and
> keeping it clean, and supposedly quieting down lifters?
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On May 17, 2018, at 7:35 AM, Dan--- via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Mobil1 averages about $26/5 quarts. I can buy 2-1/2 gallons of Delo 400
> LE for $26.00, which makes it about $2.60/quart, or half the price of
> Mobil1.  I’m not sure where you’re buying filters for $8.00, I’m paying
> around $10.00 for Mann or Hengst.
> >>
> >> So a five quart oil change is actually under $25.00.
> >>
> >> If you’re doing oil analysis properly, and as someone who did oil
> analysis on literally thousands of diesel industrial engines from maybe 50
> to 2500 HP for many years, you’re sampling on a regular basis, let’s say
> twice a year.  That’s what, $40-$50?
> >>
> >> So if you sample and use M1, you’re spending roughly $75/year with a
> single oil change based on 10k/miles/year.  If I change twice a year based
> on time or interval (5k intervals) with no sampling, I’m spending $50.
> >>
> >> So I’m running fresher oil for $25 less a year.  As I stated
> previously, if Mobil1 wasn’t a group 3 base stock I would go that route.
> However, since they downgraded the product I don’t see a lot of value in
> using it over more frequent changes using Dino oil.
> >>
> >> To each his/her own, of course. That’s just my take on it.
> >>
> >> -D
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> On May 17, 2018, at 8:01 AM, Curt Raymond <curtlud...@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Can I see the breakdown of costs please? I don't believe I pay $70 for
> a change with M1. $30/gallon on sale, $8 for a filter...
> >>>
> >>> Curt
> >>>
> >>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> >>>
> >>> On Wed, May 16, 2018 at 6:00 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
> >>> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>> Good quality diesel oil like Delo 400 LE is cheap.  I can do a
> complete change with Delo 400 LE on the 95 E300D for under $35 every 5000
> miles and not have concerns.  If I used Mobil1 it would be near twice the
> cost.  Since Mobil1 is a group 3 base stock it’s not that much better than
> conventional dino juice in my opinion.
> >>>
> >>> Oh yeah, if I drop another $20 on oil analysis I’ve driven my costs up
> even more.
> >>>
> >>> -D
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> On May 16, 2018, at 8:50 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> So here we go again. My line of thinking has been that if you go
> synthetic over Dino, can you double the internal? For example earlier
> engines like 617 and 603 have a factory 5k interval. Could you go 10k on
> those with synthetic? Later engines such as 606 have a 7500 mile interval,
> so could those go 14-15k? I am thinking so but others have said that is
> crazy don’t go more than 5k on M1 since it’s a group 3. If you go amsoil or
> one of those that’s group 4 you can probably go 10-15k on. If I can double
> the interval it’s with it to me. I don’t really need the cold start
> benefit. I am not sure if it’s a benefit on a 2-300k mile engine that has
> ran on Dino it’s whole life.
> >>>>
> >>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>>
> >>>>> On May 16, 2018, at 7:05 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> You're not wasting it on a 60x engine. Oil analysis of the two 601s
> I had suggested they could handily go 10,000miles on Mobil 1 between
> changes.I mean I guess if you really like changing the oil...
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Curt
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> >>>>>
> >>>>> On Wed, May 16, 2018 at 2:52 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes<
> mercedes@okiebenz.com <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>> wrote:  You’re
> wasting your money putting Mobil1 in the diesel.  Delvac or Delo 400 at
> Dead Sam’s will be more than adequate and far less expensive.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> -D
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On May 16, 2018, at 5:48 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I got a filter yesterday and going to change the oel in this
> dizzel.  I'm guessing cheepcheep Delvac will be fine?  Don't want to go M1
> and pay for that.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I also got the Kumhos mounted on it, have not taken it out yet as
> it is running badly now, again, going out to change the fuel filter and see
> if that helps.  The tires look pretty good, no telling how they will be but
> if they last a while it's all good.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I heard the vac valve or whatever it is on the fender that is
> connected to the EGR making some kind of gurgling noise so wonder if the
> EGR is not working right now.  I pulled the hose and it hissed so there was
> vacuum in the hoses, I guess those are OK.  I think I'll just do the
> rewiring bypass on the EGR and be done with it but need to get organized to
> do that.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> --
> >>>>>> --FT
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
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