What Rick said - one of those is what I always used on door striker plates.
Never had a problem. Of course, that was 20 or so years ago - they've been
rusting even more since then. YMMV.

On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 3:39 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Something like this works great for stuff like that.
>
> https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/
> B000NPPATS?th=1&psc=1
>
>
> Rick
>
> From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Sent: August 14, 2018 2:42 PM
> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Reply-to: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Cc: g2ma...@gmail.com
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] '87 126 striker plate screw
>
>
> For future use:
>
> I have found that when I'm going to encounter a screw or bolt that "will
> likely be stuck" it is helpful to hit it dead on with a flat face punch the
> size of the screw head, with a few blows with at least a 1 lb hammer.
>
> This tends to break loose the rust bond at the thread level between the
> screw or bolt and the fastener [nut, nut plate, blind hole threads, etc.].
>
> Side benefit of the punch strike for phillips screws is that it moves metal
> at the phillips bit area and "tightens" the phillips bit grip into the
> screw... sometimes, I move enough metal I need to "drive" the phillips bit
> into the screw... then have a good tight fit for max torque on the screw.
>
> Also, spray the screw head down with penetrate... the shock of hammer blows
> will help move it to the screw threads...
>
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-- 
OK Don

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WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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