On Mar 31, 2006, at 2:05 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:
Johnny B. Try this. Calculate how far off the speedometer is at 60 mph
(say it reads 67 mph). Take the speedometer out and find where the
needle comes to rest (you will usually have to move it to the other
side
of the stop peg as most properly calibrated speedometers come to
rest at
between 5 and 15 mph BELOW - on the wrong side of - the bottom mark on
the speedometer). Then since you read 67 mph at 60 mph, you remove the
needle and reposition it 7 mph further counterclockwise - then gently
turn the needle clockwise and lift it over the lower stop so it is
positioned pointing to the 10 mph point (the lowest reading on the
scale) and there is spring tension pressing it against the "7 o'clock"
stop. Then when you are driving at 60 (where it used to read 67) the
needle will only have moved to a reading of 60 since you
repositioned it
7 mph further counter clockwise.
Marshall
I can see how that would surely help. I need to borrow my buddy's
new GPS and take it for a ride. I could even make temporary marks
with a Sharpie at pertinent speeds so I can know how fast I'm really
traveling.
If its off by a percentage it will get calibrated to the rear. If
not I will move the needle back. Thanks Marshall, I never came across
a speedo error worth noting in the past, hence the confusion with how
the final drive ratio is compensated for. The good thing is, if it
turns out that its off by a % my actual mileage would be that much
lower and the car would have been receiving all its service sooner
than required.
After getting this and the wiper working right I can turn a damn
near perfect car over to Cathy. I'll be driving the $100 car (79
300SD) which suits me fine. In the mean time I'll be getting my next
"Disastermobile" 300TD squared away. I prefer the wagon over the
coupe when there's no better place to sleep.
I keep buying cars and I still have too many every time I check. Go
figger.
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
