What is your temperature gauge indicating?  This is really important to
understand whats happening.  If you're over 80-85, then the thermostat is
opening.  If you're under, slight warmth in the upper hose is normal.

If you filled the radiator to the top, then having it push some water out
of the overflow is totally normal.  "Full" is to the bottom of the plastic
gauge visible just inside the cap.

I just went through the cooling system in a 80 240D.  The hoses were old
and hard, water pump bearing would scream after a few minutes of running.
All new parts, including the water pump, from Mercedes, were about $200.
Heres a list of what I ordered:
A110200172080 Water pump
A6162030180 Gasket
A6172001815 Thermostat
A6162030280 Thermostat housing gasket
A1235010082 Upper Radiator Hose
A1235011882 Lower Radiator Hose
A1238321694 Heater Hose
A1238328094 Heater Hose
A1238321594 Heater Hose
A1235010215 Radiator Cap
A0005010171 Drain plug

You'll also need new hose clamps, which you can get from the dealer or
classic center as well (or Belmetric).  Its important to replace the cap,
as they often wear out over time and don't hold pressure in the system.

The water pump is so inexpensive that its worth doing as preventative
maintenance if you actually want to keep and drive this car.  Its a rebuilt
unit, core charge is under $6.

The short bypass hose under the thermostat isn't on the list since I have a
bunch of it, but the classic center will sell you a short piece without
having to buy a whole meter.  Other hoses not included here are the two off
the top of the heater valve.  They're NLA... if yours are hard or cracked,
you can replace them with normal hose.

The advantage you have here in a 240D is very easy to work on and
everything is accessible.  Flush the system well with clean water.  I
usually disconnect the hose off the back of the cylinder head and connect a
garden hose running partially open.  With the heater valves open, this will
push water into the system and you can control what gets flushed by
removing and installing the block and radiator drain plugs.

Good luck
Jaime


On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 9:31 PM Kevin Kraly via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Hello again.
> I decided to “blindly” plunge into the cooling system, removed the
> radiator cap and filled it. Afterward, I remembered the procedure of
> filling through the top hose, so I removed it, topped off the system,
> reinstalled it, tightened the clamp and fired it up. Nothing was leaking,
> so I let it idle for a couple minutes. I varied the RPMs as it got hotter.
> I turned on the heater to get more circulation through the system. When I
> shut it down, I noticed a small puddle of coolant under the passenger’s
> side of the radiator which I determined had puked out of the overflow tube.
> I also noticed that only the top hose and top part of the rad were warm.
> Could the t-stat be stuck closed? Could it be that the radiator cap is
> faulty as well? I also noticed what appears to be a vac line running down
> from the top front of the engine to  behind the passenger side headlight.
> Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
> 1982 240D 191Kmi, Hildegard
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Sep 10, 2019, at 5:45 PM, Craig via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > On Tue, 10 Sep 2019 09:23:42 -0700 G Mann via Mercedes
> > <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Had a radiator shop owner tell me to run straight distilled water with
> >> water soluble oil [machine cutting fluid oil, like is used in CNC
> >> machines.] instead of water / antifreeze mix. His claim is, internal
> >> corrosion and block rust doesn't happen using that cutting oil/ water
> >> mix, and straight water is the best for transfer of heat.
> >
> > What percentage of oil do you put in the water?
> >
> >
> > Craig
> >
> > _______________________________________
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-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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http://www.okiebenz.com

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