Took one more look at it and tried scraping some of the corrosion and gunk off with a screwdriver. The metal is crumbling away. I think it's too far gone.
Allan Allan Streib <astr...@indiana.edu> writes: > I guess it sounds plausible. Looking at the part though, it's pretty > corroded from the center to about 2/3 of the way out each of the > arms. It would take a good amount of time with a die grinder to get all > of that down to clean metal. Plus fitting the wood and gluing, figuring > out a way to clamp it ensuring that the shaft stays perpendicular (the > drum spins at 1300 RPM), etc. > > It's frustrating that this part is not a forged piece of stainless > steel. Cost vs. expected lifetime I guess, few people will complain if > their washer breaks down after 13 years of service. > > Honestly I'd probably give it a try if I were living on my own, but in a > household the tolerance level for fooling around with repairs while the > dirty laundry piles up is pretty low. > > Definitely an approach I will keep in mind however. > > Allan > > > Jim Cathey <jim.cathey...@gmail.com> writes: > >>> IDK about that.... As you can see by all the gunk and corrosion this is >>> a part that is wet and at least partially submerged when the washer is >>> running. Can't really imagine wood and JB weld holding up for long? >> >> I can. For starters, trees are wet 100% of the time while living. But the >> main factor is that I'm talking about basically rolling the wood in epoxy, >> completely coating it, pouring a little epoxy in the trough, then pushing >> the coated wood down into the trough. Then pour more on and trowel >> it down so that it's completely filling the gaps across the break. No wood >> will be exposed to water. The wood is there to give the area some flexible >> strength, like the back of a sword (which ideally is not as hard as the >> cutting edge), but mostly to fill the gap so you don't need stupid amounts >> of the epoxy. Glue works very well if you can get enough surface area >> involved. Hence filling the trough, etc. >> >> For more strength, epoxying thin strips of steel over the back side of >> the breaks would not be a bad idea, if they can fit without interference. >> As with the wood, coat the steel so that no rust would ever start. The >> steel is for strength, the surface area is for the glue. Maybe inch-long >> strips, inch and a half. Something like that. The metal must all be CLEAN, >> and rough. >> >> This kind of repair, done well, would outlast the rest of the machine. >> >> The only problem with pot metal like this is that they never make it thick >> enough to not eventually break in service. Window regulators in Mercedes >> cars are a prime example. >> _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
