Yes. Tanks are glass lined, which is great until glass begins to crack from
thermo-cycling and handling. If the actual tank leaks it must be replaced.
Leaks in hoses and fittings (as well as heating elements and thermostats) are
economical to replace as parts. In addition to replacing the anode, periodic
draining is a good idea to remove sediment. Power MUST be turned off before
draining or elements will fry. If tank won't drain (common with sediment)
backflush just enough to clear the drain. Sometimes just stomping on the drain
hose helps too. My 15-year-old WH is still OK although I did have to replace a
corrugated copper flex hose (hot side) after it corroded through.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mercedes On Behalf Of Allan Streib via Mercedes
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 4:47 PM
To: Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Cc: Allan Streib <astr...@indiana.edu>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Water heater replacement
In my experience, the tanks always leak eventually. This has been the only
reason I've ever needed to replace a water heater. But they last far longer
than 5 years unless maybe you have some really corrosive water.
Also the tank will likely have a replaceable sacrificial anode, which most
people are not aware of but if you replace that as needed, in theory the tank
should not corrode.
The heater I replaced last week was original to the house, over 20 years old.
Allan
Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> writes:
> YOu know too there is like a 3yr and a 5yr warranty tank. They are
> the exact some unit, you're just paying for the additional warranty time.
>
> Replacing one is not hard if you have the tools and want to waste the
> time chasing after it and dealing with it, but if this is a rental
> then go ahead and pay the man, your time is likely more valuable (like
> for working on cars!)
>
> --FT
>
> On 6/10/20 4:28 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>> I’m getting quotes for the cheapest tank they can find. The sad part is I
>> just bought a home warranty the other day because I figured the systems are
>> all 15 years old and will start requiring replacement in the near future. I
>> normally don’t do these but know several people with rentals and they say
>> the warranties have paid for themselves. It doesn’t kick in until next month
>> though.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 3:13 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes
>>> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> You know, for a rental I might be more inclined to call a plumber
>>> and expense the cost. Depends how much time you have to fool with
>>> it. Also if you hire a plumber then they are liable for the
>>> installation being done correctly. Same reason I only work on my own
>>> cars, not anyone else's.
>>>
>>> One more thing, if you don't have a pan under the heater, I would
>>> add that, to prevent water damage when (not if) the tank eventually
>>> starts leaking. Mine didn't have that originally, but it was near a
>>> floor drain in the basement so I wasn't too worried. However the
>>> floor was not sloped toward the drain enough so when the tank sprang
>>> a leak, the water ran all over the place. I added a pan with a drain
>>> pipe running directly to the floor drain.
>>>
>>> Allan
>>>
>>>
>>> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> writes:
>>>
>>>> It’s at the rental house and can’t remember what kind of pipe it is but
>>>> it’s in the garage closet and easy to get to. It’s natural gas.
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>>>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes
>>>>>> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>>>> Just did this a couple of weeks ago.
>>>>>
>>>>> Is your plumbing CPVC, copper, or something else?
>>>>>
>>>>> Gas or electric heater? Do you have good access to all the fittings?
>>>>>
>>>>> Mine was pretty straightforward. Replaced a natural gas heater
>>>>> with same capacity natural gas. Though it was basically the same
>>>>> size tank, the locations of the fittings were a little different.
>>>>> I could have used flex connectors with push-on ("Sharkbite")
>>>>> fittings to connect to the existing plumbing but I don't trust
>>>>> Sharkbite fittings. I have CPVC plumbing so I cut, fit, and cemented new
>>>>> pipe to connect the heater.
>>>>>
>>>>> Gas supply connection was also not exactly in the same place. It's
>>>>> threaded black iron pipe. Had to buy a few new pieces to get it to
>>>>> connect. Here again you can use a flexible connector to make that
>>>>> easier, I opted not to since the prior heater did not have that.
>>>>>
>>>>> My water heater is a power vent (the exhaust pipe is PVC) so I had
>>>>> to buy the same in the replacement. That adds a substantial amount
>>>>> to the price but in theory it's more efficient.
>>>>>
>>>>> It took me a good half a day but I work slowly and deliberately. A
>>>>> pro would probably have had it done in a hour or two.
>>>>>
>>>>> Allan
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> writes:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Is this a simple diy or a big pain and requires a plumber?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>
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