I always use a speed controller when I use a buffer. It gives much greater control. If there is heavy oxidation, do multiple buffs. First pass with a more aggressive cutting material. Then clean the car, inspect what you have gained, and decide if you want to take another pass with an aggressive cut or switch to the next step of finer cut material... ALWAYS use a clean pad, and ALWAYS clean the car between passes.
Use a light touch on the buffer, let it float across the surface and let the cutting paste do the work. Keep an eye on the pad, before it gets loaded up with dead paint material, clean it or switch to a fresh one. On Tue, Jan 26, 2021 at 12:33 PM Donald Snook via Mercedes < mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > I am very Leary of using a powerful buffer because I have seen people burn > through paint. I was watching a video and the guy had a “dual action” > buffer. It was smaller and less power than a real buffer. I saw one for > sale at harbor freight. > > I guess my question is what is a good buffer for someone that doesn’t want > to use a 3000 rpm buffer. I have used the cheap round orbital buffers from > Wal Mart. They are not powerful enough to burn through paint. But, they are > also so low speed, they can’t really tackle bad oxidation. > > > Donald H. Snook > > > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
