Jim Cathey wrote:
Two problems today: the 190D has a bad left-hand lower (and only) ball
joint, as it's miserably stiff and squeaks. It's not loose yet, but
that probably won't take long once it starts getting driven. I do
have that joint on the parts car, and it's not stiff or squeaky.
Anybody know how to remove/swap these things? Is this a heinous task?
Also, the bad tie-rod end on the same side can't be swapped with the
parts car's tie rod because it has the same bad (outer) end. However,
the parts car's other tie rod, which was bent, still has a good end.
I do not know quite how to separate the end from the bent rod, and I
don't want to flail around and ruin either good piece that I want to
combine. Anybody know how to unscrew the outer end (the LH thread
one) from the tie rod body? It has a weird double-sized cap (?) nut
there, I suppose it could also be two nuts. 19mm and about 21mm.
There are clamp-down slits in the rod body where it goes into the nut.
Anybody BTDT to give me a pointer?
Remember that I'm unemployed so used but good parts, especially ones
that I already have in hand, are pretty much what I am constrained to
use. (Though I do miss using nice clean new parts.)
The tie rods on opposite sides have threads that go in opposite
directions (rt hand vs left hand). They currently cost about $10. Can't
usually be swapped! Removing a ball joint without a press almost always
destroys it and even if it doesn't it at least destroys the boot. A ball
joint was a $20 item last time I bought one. Removing one is likely a
several hour process without a press.
I relay this from another list - refers to a 124, but I believe the 201
is almost identical.
---------------------------------
Shhhh! Keep it quiet. The car still doesn't know.
Jack up the car under the lower control arm.
Remove wheel.
Remove and hang brake caliper to the side.
Remove hub and disk.
Remove bolt on support (ball) joint.
Lift steering knuckle off of joint.
Press out joint.
Clean bore and and grease well.
Press in new joint.
Re-assemble remaining parts.
Note: When using the ball joint press, correct
alignment is an absolute requirement. It is not as
robust as a hydraulic press that will punch a bolt
into a steel plate.
> Myth: You can't change the lower ball joints on the
> car.
>
> Yesterday, my friend brought his 300E and 2 ball
> joints over. Using the
> Harbor Freight $19.95 (on sale) ball joint press,
> the
> car gave em up
> without a fight and accepted the new ones just as
> graciously.
>
> Only 2 pieces of the press kit were useful. We
> improvised the collars
> with a large 3/4 drive socket and one inch long
> piece
> of pipe. In
> addition a very stout washer was used.
> Shhhhh. Don't tell the car. It doesn't know yet.
>
>
>
> Robert Goodwin - Virginia Beach
>
> 95 E300D, 87 300SDL, 72 Karman Ghia Cabriolet, 71 VW
> Cabriolet
-------------------------
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
