Does anybody know what w201 powersteering pumps I can use on my '85 190D 2.2l?
The list dad hasn't gotten back to me so I presume he hasn't got one. Mercedes
Source has one from a 2.3l for $40 which sounds like a pretty good deal to me.
-Curt
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Vacuumed out under the rear seat before I reinstalled it from
yesterday's dog taxiing. Lotta crap under there.
Noted that the Klima relay is the same as that in the SDL, for which I
now have a supposedly-repaired spare. I installed the spare in the
car to try it next time I take it out.
Noticed that the car is also missing one of the seat belt mount covers
on the lower B pillar. Stupid PO's, that makes three missing black
plastic covers in the interior.
I jacked up the car's front and unhooked the steering idler arm.
Following the instructions in the service manual I was able to pull
the two slide bushings. Measuring them with a caliper, I found that
they were a couple of thousandths (of an inch) thinner in the middle
where they contacted the rubber slide bearings than at the end where
they didn't. Probably from wear rather than a design feature. Rather
than replace the bearing kit, which I did not have and didn't want to
spend $40 and some time getting, I decided to try an experiment. I
cut two inch-wide strips of 0.001" steel shim stock (which I had on
hand) sufficient to wrap almost entirely around the slide bushings,
greased them up, and slipped them into the bearings with the slide
bushings. It was a bit difficult to get it all together without
kinking or crimping the shims too much, but it eventually slid
together with the aid of the BFH. I had to use the big bolt to pull
it together far enough so that I could get the rubber dust seals to go
back into place over the slide bushings. The big bolt was also a bit
loose in the slide bushings, so I removed it and did a similar bit of
shimming there too. After this the idler arm was nice and tight once
it was put together and torqued down. Eventually it'll get a proper
bushing kit, but this ought to get it on the road and alignable right
away, and it ought to last for awhile. I then broke for lunch.
After lunch I went to the 87 300TD (124) parts car in the woods and
liberated its motor mounts. It was easy, since there was no motor on
them, but I did manage to lose one of the mounting bolts down into the
frame crossmember, and it would have been an extreme pain to retrieve.
Watch out for that! Fortunately I didn't need it, but I took extra
care when removing the mounts on the car. The procedure was to crack
loose the Allen bolt underneath, then lift the engine with a block of
wood under the pan, then remove the top bolt, then remove the bottom
Allen and finally lift out the old mount. The new mount went in by
putting the top bolt in so that it was still a bit loose while making
sure the locating finger was in the notch in the engine support arm.
Then I went underneath and tightened the Allen into place, then let
the engine down and tightened the top bolt. I repeated this for the
other side, except that it was complicated by the necessity of
removing the air cleaner cover first. Also while I was there one of
the two rear screws on the starter (the long spindly ones) had backed
out, so I tightened that back down. It was ironic, but the 'new'
mounts had 201 part numbers and the 'old' ones were 124! All in all
one of the easiest engine mount swaps I've ever done. Of note is that
there was no obvious sign of failure in either set of mounts, we'll
see on a test drive whether or not there is any difference.
Test drive. Transformation! The 'new' motor mounts are _infinitely_
better than what was in there, the buzzing motor-on-rails noise is
gone. We'll see if it holds up. Unfortunately the 'repaired' Klima
relay didn't work, so I put back the original, since I need to use the
car this afternoon.
-- Jim
