HOW THE #%)#)(%Y% )[EMAIL PROTECTED])( do you trim a post like this?
GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
On Wed, 23 Aug 2006 20:54:56 -0500, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Is this the stuff? (never heard of it before)
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.183/.f
"Name change in 2006: From CaiLube MCL to DeoxIT FaderLube, part
numbers remain the same)"
I haven't had to do much re-soldering, I never thought of removing the
old solder first - just melt and add a bit more (generic 60/40
multicore from All Electronics - a long time ago).
On 8/23/06, John W. Reames III <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
On Tue, 22 Aug 2006, OK Don wrote:
> I've already re-soldered this unit once - but the switches act dirty.
> I bought another one to work on, so I'll see if I can get some de-oxit
> (?) into the switches, then re-solder the thing. There sure are a lot
> of connections on those boards!
Use deoxit. You might want to try the non-aerosol which is 100%. make sure
to work the switch several times after applying it. Follow it with
cailube. I dunno how the switches in those units are made, but if you can
get to the contacts, tarn-x works wonders (more than one stack switch in a
preamp or scope has been resurrected with tarn-x)...
Oh yeah... completely remove ALL of the old solder and rpelace it with
new. The old stuff is utter crap. Use 63/37 if you can find it, with that
stuff it is quite hard (theoretically impossible) to make a cold joint
(looks good but is bad)
-j.
Is this the stuff? (never heard of it before)
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.183/.f
"Name change in 2006: From CaiLube MCL to DeoxIT FaderLube, part
numbers remain the same)"
I haven't had to do much re-soldering, I never thought of removing the
old solder first - just melt and add a bit more (generic 60/40
multicore from All Electronics - a long time ago).
--
Luther KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (236 kmi)
'82 300CD (160 kmi)
'82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR work
