Hi Jim,
I was thinking again (always a bad sign) and thought I'd run this past you. To check the GP's I was thinking I could remove the intake manifold and then turn the key to Pre-Glow position. Then I can use my 12V test light to make sure each GP is getting power and maybe I'll even be able to tell how long the GPs stay lit.

That should test the timer circuit as well as each wire from the relay to the GP - right? In lieu of the 12V test light I could use the DMM and see how much voltage each GP is getting. What value would I be looking for? 12V seems the obvious answer.

Then, assuming all those tests look reasonable, I could remove the GPs and test them with my battery charger - Pos to the relay wire connection and neg to the threads that contact the block. The GPs should get *real* hot within 15 seconds. Would that test be enough to indicate a good GP? I also have a large starting battery charger but would probably use my small BC.

I'm sure that big a$$ ammeter you mentioned is the preferred method but I probably wouldn't use it very often - and I'd rather not spend the $90. ;-)

Would these tests narrow down the problem?

Thanks again for your help --

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
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.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 10:13 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality


clamp-on
DC ammeter myself, because it's also good for measuring things like
starter current, etc.  They're not particularly cheap, but they can
certainly be had for less than my Fluke cost me.

This one, for example, is $90.

http://www.electrical-contractor.net/The_Store/EX/MA200_220.htm

The 400A range is nice for automotive work, because starters
(usually) draw less than this.

-- Jim


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