Speaking of this type of work...how do you get the 2 rails on the left side of the head that sit under the timing chain out? I'm having problems getting mine out so I can replace the head....
Luther On Thu, 14 Jun 2007 11:02:04 -0500, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I paint-marked the cam sprocket and chain, the IP sprocket and chain, > and the hub of the injection timer where the mark on the shaft of the > IP is. (That's a tough one, they're far apart. I tried to line up > the mark by eye. If I don't wipe it off it should guarantee that I > get the IP back in the same phase it came out in.) Better safe than > sorry! I removed the chain tensioner and all five bolts holding in > the injection pump. (Three on the flange, the hub bolt, and one on > the rear support bracket.) I pulled off the fuel lines and vacuum > hoses, then managed to yank the thing out of there. It's a tight fit! > > With it out the big O-ring flange seal was exposed. It was flattened, > though still somewhat flexible and not cracked. Not a smoking gun, > but it could well be responsible: the area under the flange was very > oily. Of note is that the O-ring seal looks nothing like the (much > smaller) seal I'd ordered from Rusty. I think he sent me the internal > shaft seal rather than the big flange seal. One can result in oil > leaks to the outside world, the other cannot. I will have to get the > right one. > > There is a timing adjustment screw on the back of the timing vault > that mates with the IP's flange. That would be handy when making fine > adjustments. > > I went to the parts car and found that it does have the throttle > damper on it. I'm not sure if it's supposed to be a sluggish > oil-filled thing, or more of an air-filled damper. I'll have to find > out, this one is definitely not full of oil. It was not clear where > the other end of the damper hooked on the parts car, there was nothing > obvious left in place. That could be fun. Does anybody know the > answers to these two questions? > > While I was down there I noted that the heat exchanger at the heater > tap is sealed with a fat O-ring, and held in place with a spring clip. > (The parts car's was undone.) I also grabbed an alternator from out > of the back of the '87 TD, we'll see if it's the right one and if it > works. I also checked that the parts car's AC compressor is not > seized, so we'll be taking that at some point. > > The IP for the manual transmission car also has a vacuum control valve > on the side of it, probably just for the EGR. I'll probably be > removing all this stuff anyway, it'll help reassembly and will > cut clutter in the car. (The EGR is already gone.) > > I'm going to call a few Bosch diesel service places in town to see > what they'll charge to do a re-seal job on the pump. If it's > reasonable I may have that done. (There are a number of places it can > leak oil to the outside, and the delivery valve seals should probably > be refreshed while they're there.) I don't intend to have a full > calibration done as I know that's a not insignificant expense. > > -- Jim > > > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > -- Luther KB5QHU Alma, Ark '87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case '85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi) BioBeast '82 300CD (166 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold '85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine
