Peter,

I think early this spring, I'm going to tackle the head gasket in my W124
300E.  Seeing a little oil in the coolant.  I also want to change the little
seals on the valves, and was thinking all along, that it might be easier to
just pull the whole head and do it on a bench, rather then mess around and
drop a valve in the engine, (which I would do).  My only concern is getting
the chain on and off and the cam and crank all aligned when reassembling.

Any pointers, or even a quick walk through and what to watch for, tricks to
make the job easier would be much appreciated. This won't be a rebuild, but
a good chance to "freshen" up a lot of things while it's all apart.

Thanks Peter.

Ed
300E

On 19/01/2008, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> It never rains but it pours, as the saying goes!
>
> My brother has been having an excessive vibration problem with his
> SDL for some time.  We've fixed everything we could think of (new
> belt, new PS pump, new tensioner pivot, etc) but never did get is to
> stop shaking at idle.  I finally told him to make SURE the crank
> pulley had not come loose (although I'd expect it to have flown off
> by now, but hey).  He shoved around on it, and it idles smoothly for
> a few minutes, then goes back to jumping around, and he decides his
> harmonic balancer has gone south, compounded by massive oil throwing
> from the balancer.
>
> So we get a new balancer (not cheap, $100 shipping alone from
> Germany, no one stocks one here) and go to put it in, along with a
> new front seal.  Ha, what a mess.  The friend we borrow all our tools
> from didn't have the flywheel lock and got the wrong seal too boot,
> so that held us up a couple days, along with the mess between the
> radiator and condenser.  If you have not done so, please pull the rad
> next time you change coolant and clean all that crap out.  Bugs and
> stuff get through the AC condenser, but then get hung up at the
> radiator.  His was about 1/2 masked off.
>
> Anyway, we decided to make a tool for the crank bolt removal by
> welding a piece of 2" angle iron to the old blanacer (it is held onto
> the crank hub with the six bolts that hold the pulley on, unlike the
> 617 where it presses on with the crank bolt).  Great if you have a
> dead balancer to work with, else rather expensive.  Got that job done
> pretty well, but found the belt pivot loose again.  Sam Loctited it
> in this time, I hope the threads aren't buggered from running it
> loose!  That wold be much more work that I want to do again as the
> front cover really has to come out.
>
> He also had some leaks in the coregated stainless bits in the exhaust
> manifold he wanted to fix, so ended up taking the exhaust manifold
> and turbo return pipe off since there is an inner pipe between the
> front and rear parts of the manifold and the studs are too long to
> remove just the front half.  This went well until he got to the last
> bolt at the rear where the stud broke off (or finished breaking off,
> he didn't put any twist into it).  This is the one that was broken on
> my old 300D that held us up a day on re-installation of the head, but
> his was, of course, still in the car.
>
> Tried to easy out it, but the easy out broke (I told him to borrows
> the good one from Hans, but he doesn't listen too well), so haha, off
> comes it's head.  Not exactly what we had planned, our one evening
> job is now stretching out to a couple weeks.  And $250 more than
> expected, too as a new head gasket and set of head bolts is now
> required.
>
> Now, this is only part of the fun -- my mother's TE blower motor
> starts blowing fuses, so I've got another motor on the way (used--
> I'm taking a chance here, I know), but it's not driveable with no
> heater blower when it's below freezing, can't get frost off the
> inside of the window too see.  That puts that car out of action.  Sam
> bought a 300e this  summer for spare transport, as his 75 300D needs
> IP repair and isn't driveable at the moment -- only runs on 4
> cylinders -- and the 300e decides to finish blowing it's head gasket,
> too, leaving them with only a pickup and need for more
> transportation.  I graciously lend my SIL my new 300D and fire up the
> old 280 SE and hope it runs well enough to get me to and from work
> until I get the blower motor installed in the TE.
>
> now, I dont' drive the SE all that much because it gets terrible
> milage (12 to 14 these days) and I've not been able to get it to run
> all that well for a while --- the idle keeps creeping up and it runs
> rough, misses, surges and backfires, so I wasn't looking forward to
> this, expecting to end up dead on the side of the road somewhere AND
> broke from buying premium for that 450 miles I drive in a normal
> week.  After limping to and from the in-town job, I noticed a
> pronounced hissing under the hood, and though probably the vacuum
> retard line had given up the ghost.  Bit pain as the plastic line
> runs along the valve cover and it's not easy to replace.
>
> Well, not the vac line -- fished around a bit with some carb cleaner
> spray, and discovered that one injector was sucking air around the
> seal.  In fact, the seal was missing entirely, although I'm quite
> certain there was one there last year when I replaced all the hoses
> on the ring main and pulled the injectors.  Or was that the year
> before?  I don't remember.  Anyway, I don't have a seal, the car
> isn't drivable as it, what do I do?  I don't want to drive Mom's in
> bad weather (rain and snow predicted for the next day, and it's the
> out of town job this time) -- car rental time?  Nope, found some gas
> line left from the ring main job and ha, it will fit on the injector
> nozzle and into the hole in the head well enough to seal! Hot Damn,
> here we go.
>
> Runs pretty good now, believe it or not.  Think I've got some
> sticking injectors, since it idles great but staggers when you
> accelerate, and misses intermittantly on the highway.  Also still
> uses gargantuan amounts of fuel instead of the 15-16 mpg I used to
> get.  At least I'm running.
>
> We finally got the head on Sam's SDL on Monday night, then got the
> exhaust back on  after a couple tries on Thursday.  He got the front
> end and radiator back in and the intake installed, and we finished it
> up last night.  Runs much better with no exhaust leaks, and finally
> doesn't vibrate anywhere near as much.  Rougher than the W124, but I
> think that's due to the difference in engine mounts mostly.  Still
> clanks something terrible at idle, but so did my 300D, has something
> to do with air in the injectors and cleaning carbon off the head
> making for some serious injector knock.  goes away fairly soon as I
> remember.
>
> The good part of this whole story, and the reason I didn't try too
> hard to find a way to get the stud out from the head installed, is
> that the head gasket was on the way out.  The chain case was leaking,
> as was in fact probably the majority of the oil leak.  Way messy, and
> the two small screws at the front were not tight anymore, just like
> the 300D.  Worse, there was minor oil in the #1 combustion chamber,
> and signs that the gasket was not sealing on the oil passage across
> the front (bad design, I think).  Not pretty when the cylinder seal
> fails there, you can blow a bunch of oil into the front cylinder at
> low engine speed and bend a bunch of rods, etc.  I think he dodged a
> bullet, myself.  There were also signs of combustion leakage into the
> center head bolt hole on #6 -- this is the one that was full of soot
> and broke off on my 300D.
>
> So next weekend we get to tackle the 300e head gasket and hopefully
> the blower motor on the TE shortly.
>
> Nothing like fun!
>
> Peter
>
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