> measuring less than 20mV with a standard DMM is pretty silly.

My Flukes resolve down to 0.1mV on their lowest scale.  Still
kind of coarse, but possibly workable.  Amplifiers are easy
to flange up, of course.

> There is also an RIV method that times the engine with it running!

I think that's just a VR sensor screwed into the hole in the IP.
And some electronics, of course.  Hall effect requires a magnet
to swing by, which the prong on the IP's shaft is not.  VR is
not so picky, but requires the thing to be moving at a good clip.
The AB box is just feelers, I think.  Never seen one up close.

> Cheapest and easiest way to set the timing is to set the engine to 15
> ATDC on #1 compression stroke, then adjust the position of the
> IP so that the locking tool properly engages the prong on the IP
> crankshaft.  You will be at least as close as the drip method.

That's what I did do.  Obviously something went wrong, probably it
jumped a tooth when I wasn't looking.  Maybe more than one.

> However, did you remove the pressure valves on the IP?

Nope.

-- Jim


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