It seems the next step would be to check compression.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Peter Merle
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 1:07 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 300D losing compression??

Engine was bored to 91.5mm ( Yes it is allowed check EPC and Mercedes OEM
piston A6170301917 ) was used. HEad was redone using only OEM parts ,
including new guides all round . Oil consumption has increased from and
initial 0.2 to approx 0.5 l /1000 km. Engineering shop was one that
services  the local Mercedes Dealership here in Capetown , South Africa so
they should know what they are doing. Crank was sized up one repair size.
Oil pressure is good ( 1.8 bar idle hot ) Running in used Dino oil
initially  ( 1000km ) and then switched to M1 . Valve clearances are all in
spec. I am using  DNOSD240  nozzles  ( should really be using DNOSD220
nozzles as car is early 1979 ) .

Shoud I do a major hill climb burnout? Add some magic potion to the fuel /
oil?

Peter


2008/5/10 Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:

> If you don't have increased oil consuption, it's definitely the
> valves, but if the valve guides were not installed and sized
> correctly, you now have worn over-size guides, and the valve seats,
> especially on the exhaust valves, are shot, causing low compression.
>
> The only way to tell is to do a proper leak-down test and see where
> the compression is leaking out.
>
> On a Benz, you really MUST rebuild exactly to factory specs -- in the
> case of the diesel this usually means new pistons, new liners, and
> proper clearance  --- 0.001" on the pistons (this is NOT a misprint)
> and ZERO to 0.0005" on the valve guides.  They are correct size if
> you can barely get the valve in the guide by hand, oiled.  They won't
> go in dry.  Any looser, and it will both burn oil and wear out much
> faster.
>
> Also, you MUST use bronze exhaust guides on the 61x engines -- steel
> ones wear out unblieveably fast (sometimes in less than 10,000
> miles), causing low compression, hard starts, and ruined exhaust valves.
>
> Crank can be ground twice before you go through the factory nitride
> IF it's done correctly.  The shop simply has to be using metric
> measuring tools, calculated from SAE results in undersized crank
> journals every time.
>
> Don't know the story of the rebuild --  what was the assembly
> clearance on pistons, valve stems, main bearings, crankpin bearings?
> New oil pump?
>
> Properly done, with correctly matched rings and liners (there are
> several different materials, some are NOT compatible!) a 61x engine
> ought to make 250,000 miles before it needs valves on Mobil 1.  Lots
> of low speed low load driving can sludge it up and cause the rings to
> stick, but that's only a problem on a worn engine usually, and can be
> cleared by a nice, hard drive on the interstate. Sadly, stuck rings
> usually means worn out cylinder walls.
>
> Peter
>
>
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