Just wanted to thank everyone that replied. I got great advise, and my first set of etched pieces since your replies look teriffic. Here's a recap of the feedback I got, both on and off list. (this is the condensed version):
* Radio Shack PCB Etchant (Ferric Chloride) etches very quickly, and degrades foam brushes quickly, too. Diluting helps slow the etch, giving you more control, but dilute with 91% (or higher) isopropyl alcohol, NOT water.
* For Gibeon's fine octahedrite structure, 600 grit sanding is most probably sufficient. Don't be afraid to go higher, either. Anything less that 600, and you'll lose quality on the etch.
* My muddy patches around trollite were due to the water I was adding to the FeCl3.
Thanks to all that offered help; I hope others will benefit from this aggregation of your responses!
Jeff
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Howdy Folks,
I'm a bit new to the meteorite world, and when I read Jim Hartman's
Meteorites 101 a couple months ago about etching irons, I had to give it a
try.
I've been etching and re-etching a gibeon slice that I had (with some
visible blade marks that I wanted to grind out), and finally think I'm
getting close to a good etch.
However, I keep getting clouds or haze around trollite inclusions. The
"rubbing" step seems to help this, but no amount of rubbing makes it fully
go away.
I'm following Jim's instructions as religiously as I know how (including
using hot running tap water - something I was afraid of at first). I'm
diluting my radio shack etchant about 1:4. Also, I'm only sanding to 400
grit, not 600 or 1200 like some suggest.
Anyone else seen this kind of problem?
Thanks in advance for the help,
Jeff
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