Also if you plan on doing thin sections do NOT use oils or polishing
compounds that are oil based. D_water = good!
Jim
Jim Wooddell
https://k7wfr.us
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Gilmer" <[email protected]>
To: "Count Deiro" <[email protected]>
Cc: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, October 28, 2011 3:38 PM
Subject: Re: [meteorite-list] Hard to Polish Meteorites - Any Ideas?
(diamond grit sandpaper?)
Hi Count and List,
Distilled water is the best. It has no chlorine in it. Anyone
cutting with tap water is introducing chlorine into their specimens
and that will result in an unstable specimen and could possibly start
a lawrencite disease reaction. A gallon of distilled water is less
than one dollar, so I don't understand why people don't use it -
unless they have a giant 16" slabbing saw which would be impractical
to use distilled water. My 6-inch saw coolant tank only holds about
one quart of water to the top, but I only fill it just enough to cover
the "bottom" cutting edge of the blade. I pour more into the tank
through the blade slot when needed.
Anyone who uses tap water is asking for trouble later on - rusting,
ugly, sick specimens and unhappy buyers.
Best regards,
MikeG
--
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Galactic Stone & Ironworks - Meteorites & Amber (Michael Gilmer)
Website - http://www.galactic-stone.com
Facebook - http://tinyurl.com/42h79my
News Feed - http://www.galactic-stone.com/rss/126516
Twitter - http://twitter.com/galacticstone
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On 10/28/11, Count Deiro <[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Mike and List,
Purchase the diamond polishing blocks online at:
http://www.contractorsdirect.com/Tile-Tools/Polishing-Pads-Buffing-Compounds/Diamond-Hand-Pad-Polishing
These are easier to use than the individual grit blocks and they are the
same price. $100.00 I use a shallow plastic tray with a 1/2 inch, or so
of
distilled water and place the block in the bottom and move the meteorite
by
hand. Larger examples I hold on the bottom of the pan and move the block
instead. Just enough water in the bottom to sluice off the block every few
strokes.
I find the argument that distilled water is bad for anything other than a
pristine specimen undergoing scientific study unconvincing. I have had no
incidents of accelerated deterioration, or rusting, with a specimen that
has
dried and stored properly. Just think how much water the stone has been
subjected to in the hundreds to thousands of years prior to being found.
(new falls excepted). Ambient high humidity locations subject your stones
to
water no matter what.
I'm fortunate to live in the desert.
Best regards,
Count Deiro
IMCA 3536
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Gilmer <[email protected]>
Sent: Oct 28, 2011 2:55 PM
To: Count Deiro <[email protected]>
Cc: Ed Deckert <[email protected]>,
[email protected]
Subject: Re: [meteorite-list] Hard to Polish Meteorites - Any Ideas?
(diamond grit sandpaper?)
Hi Count and List,
You are fortunate to work with Adam firsthand and watch him work his
magic. It's no secret in the collector world that the Hupes do some
top-notch preparation work for all of their specimens. When I
purchase a meteorite from Adam or Greg, I know I am getting some of
the best preparation available, even if the specimen is a small micro.
I wouldn't expect them to divulge their trade-secrets for
preparation, but I was hoping for a couple of pointers on how to
polish these hard to polish types.
The responses I have received in public and private have been valuable
and I am very thankful for the advice.
It seems part of my "problem" is dry sanding and part is the fact that
I don't have a lap-polisher. I guess I could do some wet-sanding,
using distilled water, but I don't like introducing moisture into a
specimen unless it is absolutely necessary. That is why the specimens
I prepare are stable and free of oxidation. The only water my
specimens see is during cutting (which is unavoidable) and then they
go straight into a hot waiting oven for 6-10 hours to purge all
remaining water. I use distilled water during cutting. Once the
pieces are dry, I don't like getting them wet again. But, I will try
some wet-sanding tonight and see how it goes.
Does anyone know if/where I can purchase some diamond grit sandpaper
for hand-sanding? I have been using the typical carbide sandpaper
from the local hardware store - 100, 200, 320, 400, 600. I purchase
higher grits online because they are hard to find locally without
paying an arm and leg - 800, 1000, 1200, 1500. But I don't recall
seeing any sandpaper with diamond-based grit. I'd like to locate some
if I can.
Right now I am polishing a gorgeous IMB meteorite for another dealer.
This meteorite takes a great polish, unlike the CR2 I am also
preparing. I'll be busy polishing most of the night and my right-arm
will be tired to the point of fatigue. I should have an incredible
Hulk right arm by now. On the bright side of hand-polishing - I am
learning to use my left hand/arm to good effect, once my right side
tires out. LOL
Best regards,
MikeG
--
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Galactic Stone & Ironworks - Meteorites & Amber (Michael Gilmer)
Website - http://www.galactic-stone.com
Facebook - http://tinyurl.com/42h79my
News Feed - http://www.galactic-stone.com/rss/126516
Twitter - http://twitter.com/galacticstone
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On 10/28/11, Count Deiro <[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Peter, Ed, Mike and List,
I have spent a few days cutting and polishing dozens of various types
with
Adam Hupe'. With his guidance I set up my own shop with 6" and 8" saws
and
table and hand mounted polishing equipment. Basically, Adam uses quality
diamond blades and arbor free polishing discs. Inspection cuts and
slices
are made with as fine a blade as will do the material in order to keep
the
kerf as thin as possible and reduce loss.. and at the same time
eliminate
the deep saw marks left by cheaper, thicker, blades.
Polishing is accomplished with diamond impregnated discs both powered
and
in
hand held blocks. He is a virtuoso with being able to turn our nice
even,
polished slices by hand. But, I never saw him dry cut or polish
anything.
He
uses distilled water. This could be the secret, because when I used the
same
equipment dry, I couldn't get the same results until I added water for
cooling and cleaning. The water also adds a fine abrasive sedimentary
element to the polishing mix that I think is overlooked in it's ability
to
take up minute imperfections.
Because of the fine (max.018) cut of his blades, I rarely found that I
had
to use coarser grained material to start polishing. Oh! Yes! It's really
important to dress and clear the saw blade between cuts by running it
through a piece of hand held common red brick. I could get by starting
with
600 grit on small samples of friable material and move right into 1000
and
then go on up. Bigger, harder, meteorites, or where I may have gotten
ham
handed with the saw, required 300 to start. Remember these are diamond
impregnated polishing discs and hand held blocks like the type used by
masons to finish counter top granite and marble. They can be bought in
sets
on eBay. I learned from Adam how to hand hold specimens safely while
cutting
and polishing. We both agree that there is something to feeling the
pressure
through your fingers on the stone.
All of this seems, I'm sure, very ordinary and it isn't rocket science,
but
the key info here is to use the best diamond abrasives and the smallest
diameter blades... and work by hand...and use water to carry off the
removed
material from the surface. Dry them out in the oven and fine finish wit
ultra fine jeweler's non-resin cloths.
P.S. Watch out for Urelites...they eat polishing discs.
Have fun,
Count Deiro
IMCA 3536
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Gilmer
Sent: Oct 28, 2011 9:34 A>Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [meteorite-list] Hard to Polish Meteorites - Any Ideas?
Hi Peter, Ed, and List,
I know that the Hupes have a powered lap-polisher that most likely
uses a diamond grit. I need to break down and buy a lap-polisher
(flat lap). But I typically don't sand enough material to warrant the
expense of a flat lap. Also, I enjoy hand-sanding and find it to be a
zen-like relaxation exercise when combined with the right music. :)
But, every now and then I run across a meteorite that is stubborn and
won't take a polish. This is to be expected from friable types likes
LL6, most carbonaceous types, etc. But I know CR2 types are quite
hard and robust (also most CV3), so I expected this CR2 would be easy
to polish. Thus far, it has resisted my efforts to beautify it. It's
taking the polish, but the detail is becoming muddy and lost. I
thought it might be because I dry sand and powder from the sanding was
getting embedded in the matrix. So I tried giving the slice a quick
bath in alcohol, which removed most of the powder, but didn't improve
the appearance.
I have some 1200 and 1500 grit sandpaper, and I tried going straight
to those (skipping 400-1000), but the result is the same - muddy
matrix and subdued chondrules.
Best regards,
MikeG
--
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Galactic Stone & Ironworks - Meteorites & Amber (Michael Gilmer)
Website - http://www.galactic-stone.com
Facebook - http://tinyurl.com/42h79my
News Feed - http://www.galactic-stone.com/rss/126516
Twitter - http://twitter.com/galacticstone
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On 10/28/11, Ed Deckert wrote:
Hi Mike,
Perhaps the Hupé's "trade secret" is using diamond polishing media at
a
much
higher/finer grit than you are using? It may be worth a try.
Adam & Greg, can you share your secret?
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Gilmer"
To:
Sent: Friday, October 28, 2011 9:06 AM
Subject: [meteorite-list] Hard to Polish Meteorites - Any Ideas?
Hi List,
Some meteorites are hard to polish or just won't take a proper
polish.
Allende is one example that comes to mind readily.
I've got an endcut of NWA 801 CR2 that came from the Hupe Collection.
It has a wicked glossy polish on it that accentuates the chondrules.
I'm working on some CR2 slices that need polishing and they won't
take
a decent polish. I can get the saw marks out, but beyond that I can't
get a polish to take. The more I try, it just muddies up the matrix
and subdues the features. The metal fleck and rings around the
armored chondrules come out nicely, but the rest of the specimen
becomes muddy and the chondrules fade into the matrix. What am I
doing wrong? This particular CR2 is similar to NWA 801, but a little
more weathered. Could that have something to do with it?
Do the Hupes have some magic trade-secret technique? Or am I
overlooking something obvious?
I started out with 320 grit and then progressed to 400, 600, and 800
grit - hand sanding, dry, on wet/dry sandpaper.
Best regards,
MikeG
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Galactic Stone & Ironworks - Meteorites & Amber (Michael Gilmer)
Website - http://www.galactic-stone.com
Facebook - http://tinyurl.com/42h79my
News Feed - http://www.galactic-stone.com/rss/126516
Twitter - http://twitter.com/galacticstone
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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