I'm going to say this much and please don't take it the wrong way.  
 
You seem like you don't know a whole lot about engines or ecu  management.  
With that said, rebuilding the internals of a motor with less  than common 
knowledge or tools is another recipe for disaster.  
 
I know you want to learn but its going to cost you ALOT to learn this  way.  
The best way to get this up and going is to just buy a jy motor that  is 
complete.  Install the motor and let us figure out your fueling/timing  
dilemma.  
One the car is sorted out, work on the two engines you have  at your own pace 
to assure that you are learning and using the proper tools and  procedures.  
 
I'm pretty sure once you get the car sorted out, it will have much more  
power and reliability than before even with a jy engine.  Then your  probably 
going to forget about the two other engines all together.
 
Raj
 
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 9/12/2008 9:27:54 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

hi,

so, I have a "new" long block, (reciprecating mass, head,  oil pump and oil 
pan), which I had planned on transffering all the bits and  pieces to from the 
"old", lunched motor.  I had planned on doing this w/o  opening the "new" 
motor.  however, once I saw that there were rodent  nesting materials in the 
intake with the valves opened I decided it would be  prudent to see if any nut 
shells, etc had gotten into the cyl's, so I removed  the head. (see I am 
learnig ) 
 Good News, no nuts, Bad news water had  been sitting in 2 cyl;s and caused a 
ring and a half of rust to form on the 2  cyl's  ( the fun just never ends :).

So, I decided to open the  "old" motor as well and discovered badly burned 
pitons and angled cyl  walls.

At this point, I see two options:
1) hone the "new" motor  (with ~55K miles), and see if the rust is only 
surface  rust.

IF (only S.R)
THEN.
- Maybe pop out the  pistons and replace the rings and rod bearings /* (a 
suggestion from a  mechanic friend) */
- swap bits  from "old" motor including head and maybe crank
ELSE
IF ( it is better/less  expensive to use the "old"  block)
/* since the "old" motor and crank has been machined (  
bored/decked/balanced/new baerings), and is painted and is the original)   */ 
- have the  "old" block bored out to 20 - 30 over with new pistons/rings.and 
assemble  it

ELSE
- have the "new" block  machined
- transfer the "old" bits and crank

(forgive me my poor "C" p-code, it  has been a while)

your constructive comments are  appreciated,

peter





 
____________________________________
 Psssst...Have you heard the news? _There's a new fashion blog, plus the 
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**************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, 
plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com.      
(http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014)
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