I'd be pulling that wiring at the MAF apart to see what things looked
like...especially if someone else did the install, I think we've all seen some
real hack jobs.
Ross
From: [email protected]
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 16:20:18 -0400
Subject: Re: NPC - CEL code 10 diagnostic help?
To: [email protected]
CC: [email protected]
95 = OBD I no other numbers in front of it. P0010 is an OBD II code.
The error is Intake temp. sensor circuit. Doesn't necessarily mean the sensor /
MAF itself is bad. Could be a connector, wiring, or other part of the system.
On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 2:16 PM, Stephanie Turner <[email protected]>
wrote:
My code reader is telling me that a P0010 code, on a Mazda, is for any of the
following:
~EGR Valve stuck
~Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit
~Fan Switch / Dial
~Steering Angle Sensor short
I’d start somewhere other than the MAF. If the MAF was bad, it would be quite
obvious and the car would run like ick. If the EGR was stuck the car would
still run ok. Personally, I’d verify the code again then start checking wires
to the Camshaft sensor and fan switches first. Make sure those fans are coming
on.
Are you sure the code is just “10” or are there other numbers in front of it?
The codes do run in numerical order from P0010 to P3000 (and beyond).
Stephanie
BEGi / Bell Engineering
Phone: 830.438.2890
Fax: 830.438.8361
www.bellengineering.net
Please include all previous correspondence when replying to an e-mail.
From: Donni Howell [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 12:36 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: NPC - CEL code 10 diagnostic help?
So I have a fun issue. 95 Miata, Check engine light is on - "code 10". Air temp
sensor circuit. Car seems to run fine. I swapped out the MAF with the one from
my 96 and cleared the code....came right back within seconds.
Car had a JR M45 on it when I bought it and it looks like some of the MAF
wiring may have been "disturbed" during the install (some non-OEM tape just
behind the connector). The MAF connector is seated firmly but the little clip
that secures it was broken off long before this issue.
So first question is, how do I test the wiring (say between MAF connector and
ECU), just continuity? Any resistances or voltages to check for at the
connector? Should I maybe try to locate a new connector and splice it, or is it
possible to get the pins out and re-insert in a good connector?
Other thoughts from the peanut gallery? :-)
--
"If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough." - Mario
Andretti
--
"If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough." - Mario
Andretti
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