Hello Radu:

First thing, when you provide a link, please do not enclose it in 
parentheses ( ). It makes the link inoperable for those people who 
have browsers that handle the links.

Secondly, I think we need to back this conversation up and start at 
what should have been the beginning.  You cannot really discuss a 
mini hydro installation intelligently, unless you give some idea of 
the loads that the system is expected to carry, hopefully the timing 
of those loads, and other details of how the system is operate. This 
is particularly important for a system that is off grid or "stand 
alone". 
Your system may require 24vdc or 48vdc to satisfy the other design 
parameters of the system, which would render the discussion of auto 
parts moot.

Automotive parts, particularly those off of small to mid-size cars 
such as the Camry, are designed for intermittent operation (Say 4 
hours a day, on average). As such they are generally bad choices for 
a reliable mini-hydro system.  However, if your definition of a mini 
hydro system is a few batteries, say 100-200 amp hours a day (1,200-
2,400 watt hours to provide a few lights or run a small refrigerator 
in an off grid situation), you may be happy with a stock alternator. 
If you are buying them cheap enough (say $10 each) you can simply 
change them out and throw them away 4-5 times a year, your generation 
costs you about $40-50 a year.

A better system would be built with an alternator designed for diesel 
service, especially off of a large truck, construction equipment or 
farm equipment. These would have a higher design standard for 
operation, say 10-12 hours a day. The odds are that they will last 
longer than the passenger car parts, and you can often get heavy duty 
or extended service life replacement parts. Some of these (at least 
in the US) are 24vdc systems, which have many advantages, 
particularly for larger systems and battery banks. 

If you are working on a bigger budget and the facilities are 
available, you can have alternators rewound like Doug did, and have 
basically a custom designed product. Doug also made an extremely 
important comment about better cooling. Car alternators sit right 
behind the fan and are exposed to a breeze that is generated by 
either the car movement or the fan. Although this is a "warm" breeze, 
there is a lot of air movement, and the alternator sees it 
as "cooling" air. The alternator has it's own miniature fan right 
behind the pulley. In warmer climates and a stationary mounting, this 
small fan is inadequate for running the alternator near its' max 
loading for a given rpm, for hours on end. This results in 
overheating. It will lead to premature failure of the windings as 
compared to an identical alternator being run at a reduced load, or 
one with better cooling provided.

I happen to know that Ron is located in Bolivia, so I did not mention 
the potential overheating problem to him, and forgot to mention it to 
Manfred. In my judgment, it is a non-issue for Ron, due to the 
relatively low ambient air temperatures in his location. Not knowing 
the typical temperature of the area where you would intend to locate 
the system is one of those small details that is important to know.  
While I might tell him to go ahead and use a car alternator, my 
advice to you might be "Don't do it without auxiliary cooling". This 
would be another parasite load, which would further reduce the 
overall efficiency of your system. This illustrates one of the 
dangers of reading advice about one particular system or 
circumstances, and assuming that it applies to your situation.

Personally, I would look for a generator or an industrial motor 
designed for continuous service, and start with that. These can often 
be picked up in the US for scrap prices. Some of these are still in 
serviceable condition and would just need the windings dried out 
before putting them in service.  Others can be rewound/rebuilt fairly 
inexpensively.  They will provide far more reliable service in the 
long run. 
 
Although the Balmar heavy duty alternator is brushless and it would 
be a better choice than the Camry alternator, Ron is not going to 
find one of those in a junk yard in Bolivia. I would also want to ask 
Balmar for their expected bearing life, before purchasing one. In 
their regulator manual, they say to check the bearing of the 90 
series alternators for excessive noise (that means wearing out) at 
1,000-2000 hours. In continuous operation, that is 42-84 days. If the 
mini-hydro system operator is a good mechanic/electrician, brush or 
bearing replacement is not a tremendous burden assuming the spare 
parts (or replacement alternator) areon hand. Some people will accept 
this as routine maintenance. In other cases, lack of tools, local 
expertise, and difficulty of obtaining replacement parts/expense of 
those parts, will make this an unbearable burden and you will end up 
with a system that out of service more than it is operational.

The regulator manual that you referenced is for a marine or boat 
application. Although it would be a better choice than the stock 
Camry regulator, it is still made for a certain range of battery bank 
size. The other thing they did not tell you, is that it is really 
intended to provide surplus electrical power to the house batteries 
while the main engine is running. They do not promise to fully charge 
your battery bank. A big boat with large battery banks normally has 
an aux generator/battery charger. When the house bank is drawn down, 
you fire up the 5kw aux. generator to fully recharge the batteries in 
much less time than the engine alternator(s) will take. The 
regulation of that power is in the onboard charger.
I can also tell you that the M in marine, doesn't really mean marine, 
it means MONEY. I did not see the price on that regulator, but I 
would wager that it is over half of the cost of the Xantrax C-40 
unit, if not just as expensive. The C-40 costs about $150 in the US. 
It will handle larger battery banks and will work better with 
whatever inverter you might be using. 

To sum all of this up, my general advice would be DO NOT use 
automotive parts for a reliable, low maintenance, efficient system. 
The stock, unmodified car parts, although they may have an attractive 
initial purchase price, often will have a greater life time cost 
(life of the whole system, not of the component), than the proper 
equipment will.  Get something that is designed for power 
generation/continuous service. If you feel your circumstances mandate 
the use of auto parts, then describe those circumstances and the 
system you want to build and we can try to help you with it. 

Oso


--- In [email protected], "Radu Babau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hello Oso,
> 
> 
> Acc. to the www.balmar.net, seems that they have produce heavy duty 
> alternator - 98 series (http://www.balmar.net/Page13-
98seriesalts.html) 
> which is brushless type. No brushes to wear is something, but it 
needs 
> external max charge voltage regulator. Acc. to the regulator manual 
> (http://www.balmar.net/PDF/ars-brs.pdf), page 8, when the voltage 
is bellow 
> the 14 Vdc (adjustable), the regulator keeps a constant current 
output 
> (adjustable acc. to the battery charging capabilities). When the 
voltage 
> reaches 14Vdc, it switches to contant voltage mode (voltage 
regulated mode).
> 
> Maybe this is good news. The bad news may come with the price offer.
> 
> About how voltage regulator works, acc. to things listed on 
> www.prestolite.com, these have to insure propper variable 
excitation for the 
> alternator, in order for the output voltage to be kept stable, no 
matter the 
> shaft speed or battery status 
> (http://www.prestolite.com/literature/tech/alts/TSB-
1022_Wiring_Diagrams_4800AA_Series.pdf). 
> Of course, you cannot get more amps than the alternator provides at 
that 
> speed. Acc. to what I understand from these manuals, this behaviour 
is 
> apparently good for generating purposes.
> 
> Using external rectifier diodes is a good choice. Perhaps brushless 
is also 
> a good next step.
> 
> However, I have not worked with my hands on any of these units.
> 
> 
> BR,
> 
> Radu
>








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