Method #2 is the easiest, even though you'll have to unbolt the CV joints. This is b/c the engine/trans have to slide about 6 inches apart before they become unmated. This usually requires that the transaxle pumpkin be elevated and the trans rotated to allow clearance of the right CV flange.
In other words, don't waste your time with method #1. BTW, how are you planning to pull the motor? With a cherry picker? By hand? In any case, your best method of attack is to raise the front of the car and support it with jack stands. This will allow you access underneath the car to remove such items as the exhaust, CV joints, shifter linkages and so forth. --- Steven Arguello <[email protected]> wrote: > I know some of you have done this recently. I'm going to swap my > dead 2.0 > for my spare 1.8 I want to keep the 9A trans . I'm doing this in my > garage > as soon as I sell the family SUV. Keeping in mind that it's dropped > 1.5" and > I'll have uncomfortable, if any, access to underneath the car, my > question > is what's easier; > 1. separate the trans from the engine while still mounted, I save > having to > mess with the CV's, and pull only the engine out or, > 2. pull both out together, separate the trans, mate it to the new > engine and > then drop it all back in place > Has anyone done it the 1rst way? > Thanks way in advance, > Steve > ===== Matthew __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com _____________ List Sponsor: http://www.netsville.com To remove yourself from this list, send mail to [email protected] with 'unsubscribe a2_16v' in the body of your message See us on the web at http://www.a2-16v.com Visit the 16V Homepage at http://www.gti16v.org
