RE:  Broken fasteners and such

Loral is probably also paying $$$$ for the paper that accompanies the 
fasteners.  There were issues a couple years back with false certification of 
aero fasteners.   And....Ti or S Steel is not necessarily the srongest 
fastener.  You SHOULD use antiseize when assembling. (galling)

And in rust belt and such, assembling with blue loctite 242 can assist 
disassembly because it seals the threads from corrosion, and you can use the 
proper torque with confidence.  IME, the rear caliper frame is suspect to 
corrosion and the allen socket head bolts have limited lifetime in rust belt 
given that the rotors and calipers have issues.  I've had to replace one of 
the 6mm fasteners.  

There is confusion also between the allen key used on the socket head and the 
proper name for the fastener which goes by the diameter of the threaded 
portion.  Can be close, especially with button head.  EG, the rear caliper 
mounting bolts are 6mm, but use and 8mm allen key.

FYI, the Craftsmen 3/8"  allen key sockets used to have a small allen key set 
screw to secure the bit. I've swapped out my 6mm with a portion of longer 6mm 
key.  That small set screw easily strips (my bit is epoxied in) and Sears 
will NOT warranty them or the allen key portion (considered a bit).  Newer 
Craftsmen have universal socket secured with hog ring type that makes life 
easier for Sears, but doesn't allow you to swap out the bit easily.  

A BTDT on front 9.4" calipers with broken bleeders:  You can waste time on 
trying to remove a broken one, but good luck.  A rebuilt unit at good supply 
house is only ~$25.  There are better things to spend time on.  And good 
screw extractors are not cheap.

If you are comfortable with splicing wires (soldering, shrink tube), you can 
get by with a Ford three wire O2 sensor or use the "universal" Bosch one for 
less than the OEM with matching connector.

just my $0.02.

Brian D.
NE OH
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