You should be sure to NOT put the wheel back on or his little procedure won't work cause the lug nuts will hold the disc in place...
Bryon 1991 GLI 16V --- John Caldwell <[email protected]> wrote: > On Mon, 24 Jun 2002, Bensinger, Greg wrote: > > > Hey all, > > > > Well I started to replace the front brakes on my > 91 GLI yesterday...had to > > drive my lovely back-up car(91 Buick Skylark) to > work today... > > > > The front left rotor is stuck very well to the > hub...the screw came out, but > > the rotor stayed. I have PB Blasted 1/2 a can on > it, beat on it w/ a > > sand-filled rubber sledge to no avail...any > suggestions? bigger BFH? metal > > sledge? Heat? I have new ATE slotted rotors to > replace so the stuck rotor > > is not to be re-used...how much beating can the > hub take by smacking the > > rotor before damage? > > > > bigger bfh! there's no need for a rubber hammer if > you're not gonna keep > the rotor. This will probably be enough, as it's > not so much the force of > the hammer as it is the sharp metallic impact that's > breaking that rust > loose. If not... > > Bolt the caliper back up, and leave the rotor set > screw out. Make sure > the car is securely up on jack stands- ON BOTH > SIDES- and hop in. Turn it > on, put it in first, and hold your foot on the > brakes. Let the clutch out > slowly while giving it gas. You'll be spinning the > hub, but holding the > rotor still with the brakes. If you hear any noise, > stop. A helper > watching that side would probably be a good thing > too. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > A2-16v mailing list > [email protected] > http://maillist.myip.org/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
