Radiator is probably 3-4 years old - If I do replace the radiator, I'll 
probably 
go with a custom 3-row unit.  





----- Original Message ----
> From: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
> To: Volkswagen a2 16v discussion list <[email protected]>
> Sent: Wed, August 11, 2010 1:03:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] Overheating
> 
> I am using a u/r under drive pulley has been on the car for 11 years never 
> had  
>overheating issue with it how old is the radiator ? 
>
> Sent by BlackBerry,  available from NTELOS Wireless
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From:  Matthew Yip <[email protected]>
> Sender: [email protected]
> Date:  Wed, 11 Aug 2010 09:46:15 
> To: Volkswagen a2 16v discussion list<[email protected]>
> Reply-To:  Volkswagen a2 16v discussion list <[email protected]>
> Subject:  Re: [a2-16v-list] Overheating
> 
> I'm still running the stock pulleys -  spoke with Paul @ Gruvenparts (Thx to 
>Josh 
>
> for the lead).  Their  findings are that an underdrive pulley set causes 
> over-heating which makes  sense.  I've heard about water pump impellers 
>slipping 
>
> - usually it's  the plastic ones but this car has been doing that on this car 
>for 
>
> a long  time.  I think it was the same before I changed the pump BUT I have a 
> spare at home and may just do that.
> 
> I don't have the OE shields - I  built some ducting late last year and am 
> prepared to build more as this is  driving me absolutely insane (as if I 
> wasn't 
>
> beforehand for racing a  VW).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----
> > From: darner <[email protected]>
> > To:  Volkswagen a2 16v discussion list <[email protected]>
> >  Sent: Wed, August 11, 2010 12:59:57 AM
> > Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list]  Overheating
> > 
> > Do you have an underdrive pulley set?  It  might be worth trying to 
> > "push" the coolant pump a bit more.  If  the crank pulley is smaller  than 
> > stock, try a return to full size  (opposite at pump: if it's oversized, 
> > go down a size or two so that it  has to go around more times for a given 
> > belt length passing by).   I've seen a water pump that had a shrink-fit 
> > aluminum impeller on a  steel shaft; when hot, it slipped.  No idea 
> > whether it did it from  new, though, and that was an older car.  Another 
> > thought: try  running a fully normal thermostat once, letting it act as a 
> >  constriction that slows flow, giving more dwell time in the radiator.  
> > Are all of your shields and airflow control pieces in place around the 
> > radiator?  Air that bypasses doesn't cool.
> > 
> >  Matthew Yip  wrote:
> > > I've been fighting this issue for an  eternity - with all new  hardware 
> > > and 
>a 
>
> 
> > > gutted  thermostat, my car runs HOT during a race - right  at the 
> > > hot-line 
>on 
>
> >the 
> >
> > > OE gauge with oil temps around 250-260.   My  former crew and now fellow 
> > > competitor doesn't have this  problem and  most everyone else with a VW 
> >(albeit 8v 
> >
> > > cars) doesn't have any  issue.
> > >
> >  > As noted, all the components are new and the t-stat is  gutted so, in  
>theory, 
>
> >I'm 
> >
> > > absolutely befuddled.  The  radiator is a  16v rad for an a/c car so, 
> > > theoretically, it's  the largest 16v radiator  available.  
> > >
> >  >
> > > One comment from a buddy who races and  tunes Hondas is  that the timing 
> > > is 
>
> >too 
> >
> > > aggressive and it's  building too  much heat.  I wonder if it could be 
> > > that 
>
> >the 
> >
> > > car is running too  lean, creating too much  heat.  
> > >
> > >
> > > Any suggestions on  a  more efficient radiator?
> > >
> > >  Ugh...Matthew
> >  >
> > >
> > >
> > >      
> >  >  _______________________________________________
> > >  a2-16v-list mailing  list
> > > [email protected]
> >  >  http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
> > > For  list archives,  see listinfo link above.
> > >
> > >  
> > _______________________________________________
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> > 
> 
> 
>        
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