Holland,
For many years, builders shunned any Pennsylvania crude because of the high
paraffin content. There were horror stories of Quaker State users who had
religiously changed the oil in their (small block Chevy, as an example) and at
80K, the motor went kaboom. Upon teardown, there was a beautiful relief of the
valve cover and all the rockers that had formed from the paraffin in the PA
crude oil. I've seen this in modern cars (the VW 1.8T comes immediately to
mind BUT only in the transverse-mounted engines) even when using a synthetic.
Virtually no manufacturer has an oil change interval that is long enough to
exhaust the oil's detergent capabilities. From what I recall, BMW and General
Morons are the only manufacturers that gauge oil life on usage - all the others
use a straight miles calculation. The downside to organic oil is the fact that
it breaks down at high temperatures and pressures whereas a synthetic still
protects at significantly higher temps and pressures.
On Friday, December 18, 2015 3:41 PM, Larry Velez <[email protected]> wrote:
#yiv4861421832 #yiv4861421832 -- _filtered #yiv4861421832
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Holland, Kendall is available on Amazon, which is about as convenient as it
gets these days. $50 for a case of 12 Quarts
(~$4.20/quart):http://www.amazon.com/Kendall-1057267-Performance-20W-50-Titanium/dp/B004RNSO2M
-Larry From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]]On Behalf Of Holland Phillips
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2015 3:38 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] The 2015 Oil Debate Thread Funny you should mention
that. I have used Kendall GT1 20W-50 for over 25 years. I ran it in all my
vehicles before the advent of synthetic oils. I continued to use it in
everything except my 16V mainly due to cost, and the fact that some of my
vehicles had some form of oil leak, and having $10+/quart oil ending up on the
driveway didn't make good financial sense. Kendall was originally recommended
to me by the engine builder who built the 383 stroker motor for my '78 Blazer.
His second choice was Valvoline Racing 20W-50. At the top of his "avoid at all
cost" list was Penzoil. Another interesting quality of Kendall GT1 is that it
has a greenish color as opposed to the golden hue of most motor oils. Also,
availability can be an issue. Many of the big chain auto parts places don't
carry it, at least in California. ~Holland Anyone ever try Kendall 20W-50
(Conventional Dyno Juice) in the 16v engine? Saw someone trying to make a
case for using conventional oil on older engines (vs synthentic oil): ‘I use
those oils for their higher ZDDP content, which reduces wear on the internals
of the engine. There is no reason to run synthetic in an older engine since the
oil and filter changes need to remain at or below the original recommendations.
Contamination of the oil occurs long before the oil's lubricating properties
are exhausted on these engines.’ -Larry From:[email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2015 10:07 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] The 2015 Oil Debate Thread I'm a big fan of Rotella T6
as well - I used it in my TDI and my PowerPoker with great success. For the
Mk2 cars, it's a great choice because it's heavy enough that there aren't oil
pressure issues when the oil gets HOT. I used Mobil 1 5w-30 in the racecar
b/c it's cheap and it works - I wouldn't use that on the street car though b/c
it's too thin when the temps get high. After an on-track session, at idle, the
oil pressure light would wink at me incessantly. On a street car, this is a
bad thing - on the racecar, the engine gets torn down every few years so wear
is less of a concern than the neverending quest for more HP. For
transmisison lube - on the VW, I run Mobil 1 as well b/c I have a Quaife. When
I called Quaife, I asked specifically about Red Line b/c I work for a Red Line
dealer. The reply was very coy and deceptive b/c the stock answer was "Use
factory synthetic". I finally had to ask bluntly about Red Line which elicited
"Red Line is an excellent product BUT it doesn't work well with a Quaife".
Why? Apparently it has too many solids - as a result, I went with Mobil 1
although I'd probably use Synchromesh now that I've started using it in my
daily driver (Accord - don't ask). Matthew On Monday, December 14, 2015
12:31 AM, Les Noriel <[email protected]> wrote: I have not yet decided on
what to use in my 2.0l 16V. The engine and trans have been rebuilt. I've
been using Mobil 1 Full Synthetic on my 1.8T with good results and thought I
might use the Mobil 1 equivalent in the proper weight on the Golf. I had
my AGB rebuilt by BrokeVW. Contrary to conventional wisdom, He suggested
changing transaxle oil on a regular basis just like engine oil. He had no
preference and said different trans oils work differently in each individual
020. Some like OEM, others like Redline etc. He said his experience is that
they are all very different. He suggested experimenting for best results and
change frequently. On Sat, Dec 12, 2015 at 4:34 PM, Chad Rebuck
<[email protected]> wrote:
I wasn't going to reply until I saw someone else using Rotella t6. I use
Pennzoil synchromesh in the transmission. On Dec 12, 2015 6:50 PM, "'Josh Wyte'
via MK2-16v" <[email protected]> wrote:
All my cars now get Shell Rotella T6 5w-40. O'Reillys has the gallon
containers on sale now for $22.
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 12, 2015, at 4:28 PM, Larry Velez <[email protected]> wrote:
So here it is, the 2015 oil thread debate. What Brand and Weight of Oil are
you guys using these days on your 16V? (I had been using Mobil 1 15W50 until
my car went into a comma) Anyone using Lubro Molly 10 W 60 (Expensive stuff
but some think the thin-ness is liked by our high revving engines..) Just to
make it more interesting, what are you using in your Transmission? -Larry 91
GTI 16V --
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