Gregory Luce writes on smart codes and condemned housing rehab
----- Original Message -----
From: Gregory Luce <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

[much deleted text]

[T]he city issued a list of required repairs, all of
> which I've listed at the end of this e-mail. The list is unusual only in
> the sense that it really is not as extensive as most that accompany
> properties that are vacant and boarded. Except in very few instances,
> the text describing the repair needed is the exact text provided by the
> inspector. I encourage you to read through some of them to think about
> what is now required for this property.

I'm a handyman/carpenter by profession, so I'm familiar with some of these
issues.  I'll try to comment with an eye toward how "smart codes" might
facilitate rehab and reoccupancy in a way that's not cost prohibitive:

> Repairs Required
> Building Inspection
>
> 1 Raise grade around building for positive drainage
> 2 Repair or replace uneven sidewalk
> 3 Tuck point chimney and foundation
> 4 Tear off and re-roof house and garage to code
> 5 Make correction to exterior steps to provide rise and run to code
> 6 Repair broken basement windows and maintain ventilation requirement by
> keeping windows openable
> 7 Replace rotted and broken roof decking (mostly around chimney)
> 8 Provide exterior and interior handrails (in reach) at all steps and
> stairways. Provide guardrails around all landings that are more than 30"
> above grade, including along open side of basement stairs
> 9 Provide smoke detectors on every level and in every bedroom

Out of this whole list, the most important things are roof repair (from a
structural standpoint) and smoke detectors (from a safety standpoint).  The
other repairs on this list (steps, handrails, grading, tuckpointing) really
shouldn't prevent re-occupancy of a solid building, though they should be
dealt with eventually in order to make the building more safe, and to
prevent potential structural damage (wet foundation, weakening brickwork,
etc.)

> Plumbing Inspection
>
> 10 Water Service: Bring meter and valves up to code
> 11 Water Piping: Bring all water piping up to code and sizing--back to
> water meter
> 12 Gas Piping: Bring all gas piping up to code and proper sizing
> 13 Waste & Vents: Bring all waste and vent up to code
> 14 Floor drains: locate and bring up to code
> 15 Laundry tray: make workable, bring up to code
> 16 Water Heater: Bring water heater up to code; make workable
> 17 Washer: Legal hookup
> 18 Dryer: Gas and vent legal hookup
> 19 Kitchen sink: bring up to code and make workable
> 20 Gas range: if gas, install to proper size and install code valve
> 21 Bathroom water closet: new closet; bring up to code
> 22 Bathtub: code faucet and bring up to code
> 23 Basin: bring up to code

I'm not a plumber.  I think Mr. Luce commented that these guidelines are
really vague.  I agree.  Unless the inspector saw potential for sewer gas
backup, or pipes that were so badly corroded that they were in danger of
bursting, I don't believe that simply having older plumbing should be an
obstacle to occupying this house safely.  Consider the cost of this:  not
only would you have to replumb the entire house (waste and supply lines from
and to the meter/street), you'd also be ripping out and reinstalling
plaster/wallboard and structural framing members throughout the house.

Gas line hookups are also incredibly important -- perhaps a CO detector
requirement near each gas burning appliance would be a reasonable
requirement.

> Electrical Inspection
>
> 24 Basement: ground service to requirements of the 1999 National
> Electric Code; install a ceiling light in northeast room of basement

Safe electrical service is important.

> 25 First Floor Living Room: install a paddle fan box for support of the
> paddle fan or install a conventional light fixture
> 26 Kitchen: install a grounding type receptacle for the stove area
> 27 Northwest bedroom: add one wall receptacle
> 28 Bathroom: remove swag light fixture and install a conventional wall
> mounted fixture
> 29 Attic area: install a light fixture for the ceiling box or install a
> blank cover for the box

I'm also not an electrician.  But all the stuff above is minor, and seems
reasonable and relatively inexpensive.

> 30 Garage: wiring to meet code or remove all wiring to it and in it

If the wiring is genuinely dangerous, this is valid.  If it's not, and this
house is in a neighborhood where you might want a motion detector or
security lights, or if the owner wants/needs an electric garage door opener,
maybe this needn't be a requirement for reoccupancy.

> 31 Repair or replace all broken or missing switches, receptacles, light
> fixtures, fixture glass, paddle fans and wall plates
>
Cheap, do it yourself commonsense stuff.

> MWA Inspection
>
> 32 Replace or repair all damaged duct in the basement
> 33 Replace or repair damaged return grilles
> 34 All supply air registers must have operable dampers
>
> Gas and Furnace Inspection
>
> 35 Clean burner
> 36 ORSAT test furnace
> 37 Install combustion air to code
> 38 Install venting to code
> 39 Service, repair, or replace all controls or install complete new
> heating system

Having your furnace/boiler system inspected should be part of any home
purchase.  If older equipment is operating safely, and venting properly,
install a CO detector, and inform the owner of the benefits of investing in
newer, energy efficient equipment.

> Housing Inspection
>
> 40 Provide required handrails to basement
> 41 Repair and refinish deteriorated walls in bedroom closet

These are not big repairs, but they shouldn't be obstacles to occupying the
house, either.

Out of the 41 required items on this list, there are only 9 or so that are
vital to the safety of the occupants and the continued integrity of the
structure.

Smart codes would make it a lot easier to get a lot of people into a lot of
houses a lot faster.

Mike McAneney
Ward 11
[Disclaimer:  I have not seen this house, this is not a "professional"
opinion, just a few common sense suggestions.]

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