And so, that thinking has lead me to my current favorite way to do French
polish: Clean, dry nail….apply some sort of protein-type primer, do a
perfect, thin white line with my striper brush, THEN apply a base coat over the
whole thing. Next a sheer overlay coat for color and to perfect the nail
beds…and then a good top coat. Putting the base coat over the white tip gives
you just that much more protection and they wear really well.
I SOOOOO totally agree with Karen here. I have been doing this french
technique for over 10 years EXCEPT...I never applied the protein bonder...and I
used a nail art brush to clean up the line (cause I seldom can do a"perfect"
line)..not all my clients liked a thin line some liked regular smile
lines...and my clients always loved how my frenchs stayed on so much longer
than other techs they had tried in the past. The white hardly ever chips
because it is protected by the base and color and top coats....and I, like
Karen, was in Florida where I think 98.9% of the population wears frenchs on
their toes....never mind their hands! (most hands of my clients were enhanced)
Good luck...practice...try all suggestions and then stick with the one that
works for YOU!
Pati
'Life is too short to wake up in the morning with regrets;
so love the people who treat you right, forget about the ones who don't,
and believe that everything happens for a reason.
-----Original Message-----
From: KeyzKaren <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
uth.net>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 2:18 pm
Subject: NailTech:: Re: new to the group-Crisp French
From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Shannon
Kuharik
Second, I work only with natural nail and I am having a really hard time with
the french manicure. We do this by hand and I cannot for the life of me get a
crisp line. I have tried buying nail art brushes but they did not help. Of
course I could have bought the wrong kind.
Hi Shannon…welcome to the group…and welcome to an amazing profession that will
be so fulfilling over the years!
I was taught a very unique technique to do French polishes…or any nail art, in
fact. My teacher was a nail tech of 7 years (Oh how lucky I was!) and when she
laid down the color for a design…she would take the first stroke across the
area she wanted to paint…and then quickly flicked the brush back and forth over
that area….and the color would sort of settle down into a perfect coating. No
brush strokes at all!
It’s hard to describe…but holding the brush, loaded with color, but not too
much (be sure and swirl your brush stem against the bottle opening so there
won’t be a big ole drop of polish running down the stem and side swiping you!)
and run your first swipe of color across the area you want to cover…maybe
another stroke if it’s wide…and then20flick, flick, flick flick…the brush back
and forth. This….sort of disturbs the surface tension of the new color I
guess??...and it will all settle down into a solid area of color with no brush
strokes in it. You have to be fearless! You can really push your product to
perform if you will!!!
Also, are you bracing your pinky finger against something as you wield the
brush? This is a “fulcrum finger” technique….use either your other hand or the
client’s hand to brace your pinky finger and all the wavering will go away.
As for Frenches…I personally use art brushes…but the kind that are striper
brushes in the little tall bottles. Some are square some are round…but the
brush is a longer, very thin, round brush, rather than as big as a polish
brush. It’s So Easy and V-Rush are two that I can think of off the top of my
head. You can get the most PERFECT line of white across the tips of the
teensiest nail with these brushes!
Also, don’t be afraid to snip a wild hair out of your brushes. Or to trim them
if they are too square-ended. You can even trim a few hairs off of a white
polish brush if you like!
Another way of crisping up a French (but not my favorite because it disturbs
the base coat) is to use a tiny brush with acetone on it to back-wipe the
French smile line. If you’re going to overlay the entire nail with a sheer
color, and if you
back-wipe enough to remove all the base coat in that area, you might be able to
see where you’ve wiped when you do the overlay. If you’re just going to top the
whole thing with a clear top coat…it’s invisible.
And so, that thinking has lead me to my current favorite way to do French
polish: Clean, dry nail….apply some sort of protein-type primer, do a
perfect, thin white line with my striper brush, THEN apply a base coat over the
whole thing. Next a sheer overlay coat for color and to perfect the nail
beds…and then a good top coat. Putting the base coat over the white tip gives
you just that much more protection and they wear really well.
Hope this gives you some ideas to try!
Best wishes and enjoy every day of your wonderful career!
Karen
Morning Glory
Key West
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