Becky,
I have really....really short nails..to which I have applied both axxium sog 
and Shellac. (different times)  I file often to keep the nails short...I do not 
want a free edge...they do not lift or separate.  Well my left thumb on it's 
right side did separate a tad (shellac from nail) BUT...have to add this nail 
is very damaged and separated form the nailbed on that side..so it is super 
flexible. (chemo damage NOT my doing )  Shellac is holding up REALLY well. This 
is the start of my second week. 
I am curious tho..why did you NOT use  the base coat? Could that be your 
problem?



Pati

'Good friends are like stars... 
You don't always see them, But you know they are always there.



-----Original Message-----
From: Becky <[email protected]>
To: nailtech <[email protected]>
Sent: Thu, May 13, 2010 3:52 pm
Subject: NailTech:: Gel Polishes, my saga... need some help?


OK. *sigh*


I am irritated with french manicures. I hate gel. LOL 


This week I've had several new clients asking about SOG's. Sooooooooooo, I've 
applied several FRENCH MANI's and I have some issues. I will be as detailed as 
possible and feel free to chime in and correct me.


French Mani #1
- No base coat, only dehydration with ScrubFresh 
- Axxium Hawaiian Orchid applied directly to the nail, one coat
- Dispersion layer LEFT, applied white SOG - flash cured  4 nails at a time
- White was way too thick, ended up BUFFING THE NAIL then topping with top 
gloss and curing 2 min


On this particular manicure, as I was dripping sweat down my neck - STRESSING 
OUT because I my french mani's are usually FLAWLESS in acrylic or polish. This 
SUCKED! I ended up buffing the nail gently to smooth out the HUGE lip of white 
I had (I applied as thin as possible without being able to see brush marks - 
swiped the nails... cured. BEGIN PANIC ATTACK.


She texts me the next day and says 2 of her nails are "lifting". BECAUSE the 
polish had gotten a little "crusty" on the free edge, I GENTLY filed the edge 
and apparently broke the seal - I'm not sure because I don't remember which 
nails this happened on WHICH BRINGS ME TO THE NEXT question: How are you people 
capping a short free edge (like on the video that Holly posted) and NOT getting 
those little crusties on the edge?!??! 


French Mani #2
- ScrubFresh THOROUGHLY, applied Protein Bond to free edge
- Axxium applied directly over nail
- White CINA pen to tips
- Top It Off Gloss top coat 


On this one (same client, I had her remove all product and I re-did her nails), 
I applied Axxium, removed the dispersion layer and used the CINA Nail Art Pen 
to apply the white. Looks great, ok, moving on to other hand - come back to the 
first hand and some of the white has gotten spotty! REAPPLIED another coat of 
white, touched up - applied Top Gloss, DRAGGED HALF THE WHITE ONTO THE NAIL 
BED! ARGHHHHHH............ REMOVED ALL WHITES, tried again (remember the 
sweating from earlier? Yes, the pits are drenched and I'm frreeeakkinngg out 
inside, keeping my cool on the outside..... I feel a bead of sweat come down 
the FRONT OF MY NECK, LOL!!! Second attempt of Cina application - allowed it to 
dry more thoroughly and left a "buffer" of gloss on the brush so I wouldn't 
drag it this time, capped free edge (made sure to cover ALL Cina so it wouldn't 
wipe off) - cured, BAM! Gorgeous......the only exception is that the whites 
weren't perfect because that pen wasn't perfect, but that was only seen by ME - 
otherwise it was very nice.


French Mani #3
- ScrubFresh thoroughly only
- Axxium applied directly to nail
- White Cina Pen to tips
- Top it Off top coat


This one went well, but I did have to file the free edge on a couple again (did 
this one before I heard that French Mani #1 had "lifted") so I'm scared to 
death she's going to call and say hers are lifting too.


Notes: I HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATE GEL FRENCH MANI's. I need an EASY way to 
do these and have them look great. So far, the best method has been applying 
the pink and swiping (reverse application) flash curing one hand, do the other 
hand, flash cure - apply white, butting it up against the pink where you swiped 
(so take care to make the swipe accurate) IF I am to use SOG for the entire 
process. If I use the Cina pen, I need some advice on whether to apply it over 
the dispersion layer or not and how to take care not to get the CRUSTIES on the 
free edge! 


I absolutely recommend that you do NOT file the free edge no matter how jagged 
it ends up - but I need to make sure it doesn't happen because clients will 
pick!


MUCH advice needed!
-- 
Becky F.
Licensed Nail Tech
KC, Mo.


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