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http://www.sundayindependent.co.za/index.php?fArticleId=2528450&fSectio
nId=1041

Beefing up the local stake

By Mary Corrigal

Young children skip up mountains and dance around tepees in American Indian
garb. That is the TV advert but what is Spur's food actually like?

Echoing the ad, the inside of the steakhouse is festooned in a plastic
rendition of Native American artefacts: PVC cowhide seat covers, artificial
cactus plants, plywood totem poles, feathered headgear and dream-catchers
holding pictures of a "tribal chief".

Despite the themed décor, Spur restaurants are essentially steakhouses.
Before the influx of Asian, French and Italian cuisine to South Africa and
the rise of meat-bashing vegetarians, steakhouses were almost the only
restaurants one could find in this country. They are as much a part of the
South African culinary tradition as the braai.

As South African taste buds have become more refined, steakhouses -
excluding such grand institutions as the Meat Co and Butcher's Grill - do
not attract clientele expecting an unforgettable dining experience.

As the title infers, steakhouses cater for those who wish to tuck into some
good old-fashioned meat. It's a primordial gastronomic desire that many
can't ignore.

However, these days, fine diners tend to turn their noses up at
steakhouses.

Let's face it, no diners worth their salt actually admit to eating at Spur.
It's the kind of restaurant that you take your children to or drop in at
while visiting a small dorp on the way to the Cape.

Yet most children's first introduction to the eating and drinking world
outside of mum's kitchen is the steakhouse because it is viewed as a
relatively safe public dining environment to let the little ones loose.

The first eatery that had the pleasure of welcoming my critical palate was
a Longhorn steakhouse. I arrived decked out in my pyjamas, clutching my
father's hand.

Perhaps it is because of these fine memories that I find myself, despite my
fussy eating habits, at the Golden Creek Spur for dinner.

Before I have even looked at the menu I know exactly what I am going to
order; it has to be BBQ spare ribs with chips and Spur's signature deep
fried onions.

That is one of the joys of eating at a budget steakhouse; you know what's
on the menu before you get there. Excluding the traditional salad bar,
almost everything else on the menu is decadently deep fried. This is not a
restaurant that caters for calorie counters.

To surprise people like me, who think they know what's on the menu, Spur
have introduced a starter menu that offers smaller deep fried options. We
settled for the deep fried mushrooms with tartar sauce (R27,45) and cheese
quesadillas (R18,95).

The deep fried mushrooms were palatable, but the tartar sauce was grim; the
mayonnaise watered down to a thin tasteless consistency. The quesadillas
were a real disappointment. There were no jalapenos in sight and it came
with a measly spoonful of guacamole.

Although the food appears briskly - leaving one with no time to kill in
between meals - there is an array of entertainment to be had. If you worry
that you might be missing out on your night's TV viewing Spur is
tailor-made for you. There are TV screens dotted around the restaurant.

And if there is nothing on TV that takes your fancy you can read the yarn
on your placemat, which tells the story of "A young chief from flat
mountain", who cooks up some steaks for his tribe.

Before I found out what happened on the young chief's adventure my BBQ
hickory smoked ribs (R46,95) had arrived. The ribs were tasty, succulent
and delicious. They reminded me of my first eating-out experience as a
child.

Although I don't have a taste for Fanta Grape ice-cream floats anymore, BBQ
ribs still hit the spot. My partner became noticeably silent when his
T-bone steak (R49,95) with pepper sauce (R10,95) arrived - signalling his
approval.

The main courses are quite filling; we could have easily skipped the
sub-standard starters. Therefore we didn't have room to squeeze in dessert.
But if you want to take a trip down memory lane you can order the ice cream
with hot chocolate sauce.

The service was swift and efficient and the manager did pop by to check on
our food, proving that budget food doesn't necessarily mean budget service.

This steakhouse may be the perfect spot to bring the kids - there is a
jungle gym outside and a playroom inside - but when you don't feel like all
the pomp of a five-star restaurant and crave something meaty and fried,
Spur fares well for adults too.

# Spur restaurants are to be found nationwide

Published on the web by Sunday Independent on May 21, 2005. © Sunday
Independent 2005. All rights reserved.

 

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