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Posted at 11:08 p.m. PST; Thursday, November 25, 1999 
Seattle Times
Tribe returns to traditional gardening as way to get by, and to fight 
diabetes 

by Pauline Arrillaga 
The Associated Press 

SELLS, Ariz. - Margaret Saraficio's garden produced enough squash this fall for seven 
meals. To her that meant seven times she didn't have to spend money at the store.

If not for the crows, she grumbles, the yield would have been higher.

"I don't buy squash anymore," Saraficio says as she shows off her acre patch, now 
plowed under for winter. "I like to plant. I think it's healthier."

Saraficio, a 64-year-old basket weaver, is one of dozens of people on the Tohono 
O'odham Indian Reservation who cultivated gardens this year as part of a federally 
funded program to fight food insecurity in poor communities.

The program is sponsored by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, which last month said 
10 million American families had inadequate access to food from 1996 to 1998. Arizona 
ranked fourth in the nation, with 12.8 percent of its households, or 228,000 families, 
threatened with hunger.

The Tohono O'odham know what it means to be hungry.

In the old days, gardens, not groceries, dominated the landscape of the sprawling 
reservation in southern Arizona's Sonoran Desert. The harvest was bountiful during the 
summer, but barren in winter.

"One old man told me, 'I remember when we used to have just a piece of tortilla, and 
that's what we survived on during the hunger-time,' " says Art Wilson, cultural 
coordinator for the tribe's elder program.

Still, traditional gardening sustained the community until World War II took the men 
from their families and a devastating drought struck a few years later. One by one the 
gardens died off, and the native food system was replaced with government commodities.

Today, with 66 percent of the reservation's 18,000 residents living in poverty, 
commodities and food stamps provide most of the meals for the Tohono O'odham.

But there is another problem: More than 50 percent of the tribe's adults have 
diabetes, a plight blamed on the destruction of the traditional food system and diet.

The Tohono O'odham Community Food System project looks to return to the traditional 
ways, to improve both the availability and nutritional value of food on the 
reservation.

This summer volunteers with Tohono O'odham Community Action (TOCA) helped 50 families 
plant gardens using seeds for traditional foods such as corn, squash and tepary beans, 
a heat-tolerant crop that can help regulate blood sugar. They provided tools, fencing 
and, for elderly gardeners such as Saraficio, manpower.

TOCA also is sponsoring field trips to collect food from the wild, including beans 
from mesquite trees, saguaro cactus fruit and acorns. Additionally, schoolchildren 
participate in a weekly food program at the reservation's community garden, planted in 
1996 next to the hospital in Sells.

At the heart of the project, says Tristan Reader, co-director of TOCA, is the idea 
that defeating hunger takes more than ensuring that families have enough food. It's 
about having the right foods, both nutritionally and culturally.

"Even for people who might have enough in their stomach when they go to bed, their 
bodies are still starving because they're the wrong foods," he says. "The solution is 
here. It's in the community's hands."

Copyright © 1999 The Seattle Times Company 
Reprinted under the Fair Use http://www4.law.cornell.edu/uscode/17/107.html doctrine 
of international copyright law.
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